JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 18 AVRIL 2023

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

97 pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.

 

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021

95 pts. Stunningly complex nose of dried flowers, beeswax and candied citrus peel. However, the interplay of richness and freshness on the palate tops it. Extremely long finish where the fine tannins build and build at the salty climax. A cuvee based on clairette with grenache blanc, roussanne and a little bourboulenc. Some of the vines date back more than a century, but the majority are about 40-50 years old. Drink or hold.

 

PIEDLONG – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

Very spicy and savory with grilled rosemary and dried flower nuances. Very powerful but extremely focused with a great mineral freshness and salinity, it’s really hard to believe this easily has 15% alcohol! Very fine tannins and a delicate vegetal quality that makes them feel even more lively. Long extremely animating finish with so much Mediterranean herb character. 90% grenache and 10% mourvedre. Drink or hold.

 

TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019

94 pts. An excellent introduction to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of damson plum, bitter chocolate and savory on the nose. Rich and dense but with plenty of vitality, and as it flows over the palate more and more spicy, wild herb and balsamic nuances emerge. A cuvee of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 6% mourvedre and 4% cinsault from a variety of terroirs within the appellation. Drink or hold.

 

CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

94 pts. A powerful and bold white Chateauneuf with a lovely freshness. Plenty of melted butter character, but also stacks of floral honey and dried flowers. Beautiful integration of fine tannins and moderate acidity at the long finish. Single vineyard. There’s sandy soil, like at Rayas. A blend of one-third each of grenache blanc, clairette and roussanne. Drink or hold.

 

RACINES – GIGONDAS 2020 

95pts. A very deep, dark and dense Gigondas that nonetheless has great balance and finesse. Great dried Mediterranean herb complexity, but also stacks of licorice. Then comes wonderful freshness at the powerful and velvety finish. 90% grenache, 5% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

 

TERRASSES DU DIABLE – GIGONDAS 2020

93 pts. Here’s a rich, but beautifully crafted Gigondas that’s brimming with red fruits and spice. Also notes of licorice and rosemary. Impressive interplay of generous earthy tannins and damson plum richness at the ample finish. Drink or hold.

 

PIGEOULET BLANC – VIN DE PAYS VAUCLUSE 2022

91 pts. Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne,10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brunier family lives. Drink now.

 

AU PETIT BONHEUR – VIN DE FRANCE 2022

92 pts. Very distinctive nose of quince, ripe pear, orange blossom and rose. Mouth-filling richness and a wonderful creamy texture pull you onto their magic carpet and take you for a ride. Then the restrained tannins come through and give the finish a wonderful tension in spite of the soft acidity. A blanc de noirs made from grenache and cinsault, fermented and matured in 600-liter wooden casks. Drink now.