WINE SPECTATOR – KRISTEN BIELER – DÉGUSTATION MARS 2024

2020 Vieux Télégraphe (94)

This shows a lot of aromatic appeal, with dusty earth and singed incense notes covering a well of fresh cherry and red currant flavors. A gutsy, grippy style on the palate, with a cast iron spine bringing firm shape and underlying power. Slightly old-school, this still needs time to unfurl. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2025 through 2035. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.

2020 Télégramme (91)

With gentle edges and an attractive mix of sweet red fruit and baking spices, this is supple and open-knit, reined in with notes of savory smoked graphite, earth and tobacco. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2028.

2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (94)

Full and broad, with a well-structured framework for the green plum and citrus cream flavors, while subtle fleur de sel and buttercream notes stream along. The texture starts out glycerol smooth, then is propped up by chalky, slightly bitter tannins to pleasing effect. Fresh, with good intensity and balance through the powerful finish. This has a long life ahead in the cellar. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2035.

2021 Clos Roquète (92)

A distinctive style, with an earthy side. Chalky and full on the palate, with ripe kiwi and mirabelle plum undercut by tangy acidity. Gains freshness from green herb and crushed stone notes, while a bitter almond accent lingers on the finish. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Drink now through 2028.

2020 Piedlong (93)

A glossy, high-toned style, this seductive red displays red tea, licorice and cherry fruit leather flavors that ride along on a warm, open-knit palate filigreed with lavender and a hint of dried leaves. Elegant and pure, with an element of crushed iron, this has a density that offers plenty of stuffing and length. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2032.

2021 Terrasse du Diable 2021 (90)

This offers some nice substance, locked up behind subtly firm tannins that are beginning to unfurl. Smoked oolong tea and cured meat flavors give this a savory edge, with notes of graphite shavings dusting plum skin and stewed cherry. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Clairette. Best from 2025 through 2030.

2021 Racines (90)

A racy, taut version, with high-toned floral aromatics sharing the stage with flavors of iodine and mesquite smoke. A salty, smoky meat note weaves through, infusing light red currant and raspberry accents on a light-to-medium frame. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette. Drink now through 2027.

2022 Au Petit Bonheur

Pale and polished, offering smooth flavors of mango and honeyed pear that glide through on a silky palate. Shows impressive weight yet stays fresh, with salty mineral notes nicely offsetting the supple, full feel. This distinctive style finishes with bitter pithiness and a smoke detail. Grenache, Clairette and Cinsault. Drink now. 450 cases imported.