GOURMET TRAVELLER (AUSTRALIE) – JUIN 2012 – ANDREW JEFFORD

2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, A$145 There’s something almost Burgundian about Vieux Télégraphe, with its clear, light colours; its refined scents of bay leaf and tobacco; and its unforbidding, glycerous flavours, full of faintly saline stoniness, licorice refinement, and with a gentle chocolaty sheen to the quiet, calm fruits. It’s almost as if you can taste the vast, bright sky, poised up above the boulder-strewn plateau of Crau, in the wine’s extensive openness of flavour: a serene summary of place.