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JEB DUNNUCK – DÉGUSTATION DÉCEMBRE 2024
Les Pallières Racines 2022
(94) The 2022 Gigondas Racines (75% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault) was mostly destemmed and spent 14 months in foudre. Coming from slightly lower elevation parcels (just beside the estate) and older vines, it’s slightly deeper ruby-hued and has a meaty bouquet of black cherries, melted licorice, tapenade, and peppery garrigue. This carries to a more structured, medium to full-bodied, concentrated Gigondas that’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age.
Les Pallières Terrasse Du Diable 2022
(93) A great vintage for this cuvée, the 2022 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable comes from higher elevation sites and pure limestone soils. (It’s mostly Grenache.) Rocking levels of kirsch, ripe cherries, chalky minerality, melted licorice, and white flowers all define the aromatics, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a round, layered mouthfeel, and a great finish. It’s one hell of a sexy, ripe, impossible-to-resist Gigondas.
Les Pallières Terrasse du Diable 2023
(90-92) Due to the tiny yields, there won’t be a Racines, but the 2023 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable offers a solid ruby hue to go with a deeper, richer nose of black cherries, roasted garrigue, licorice, and crushed stone. It’s medium-bodied and has a supple, elegant mouthfeel and outstanding length.
Les Pallières Racines 2021 au top 100 des vins français de JamesSucking
Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines 2021 – 98/100 – Stuart Pigott
(95) Concentrated and silky with fine, fantastic tannins for the 2021 vintage, this is earthy and meaty with excellent concentration and a very long, firm yet polished finish. A cuvee based on grenache from vines growing around the winery. Should age extremely well. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
WINE SPECTATOR – JAMES MOLESWORTH – DÉGUSTATION AVRIL 2022
2018 Terrasse du Diable (91)
Solid, showing cherry and plum paste notes laced with singed tobacco, alder and red tea. The sneaky long finish has a nice chalky thread. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Clairette. Drink now through 2026. 585 cases imported.
WINE SPECTATOR – KRISTEN BIELER – DÉGUSTATION MARS 2024
2020 Vieux Télégraphe (94)
This shows a lot of aromatic appeal, with dusty earth and singed incense notes covering a well of fresh cherry and red currant flavors. A gutsy, grippy style on the palate, with a cast iron spine bringing firm shape and underlying power. Slightly old-school, this still needs time to unfurl. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2025 through 2035. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.
2020 Télégramme (91)
With gentle edges and an attractive mix of sweet red fruit and baking spices, this is supple and open-knit, reined in with notes of savory smoked graphite, earth and tobacco. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2028.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (94)
Full and broad, with a well-structured framework for the green plum and citrus cream flavors, while subtle fleur de sel and buttercream notes stream along. The texture starts out glycerol smooth, then is propped up by chalky, slightly bitter tannins to pleasing effect. Fresh, with good intensity and balance through the powerful finish. This has a long life ahead in the cellar. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2035.
2021 Clos Roquète (92)
A distinctive style, with an earthy side. Chalky and full on the palate, with ripe kiwi and mirabelle plum undercut by tangy acidity. Gains freshness from green herb and crushed stone notes, while a bitter almond accent lingers on the finish. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Drink now through 2028.
2020 Piedlong (93)
A glossy, high-toned style, this seductive red displays red tea, licorice and cherry fruit leather flavors that ride along on a warm, open-knit palate filigreed with lavender and a hint of dried leaves. Elegant and pure, with an element of crushed iron, this has a density that offers plenty of stuffing and length. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2032.
2021 Terrasse du Diable 2021 (90)
This offers some nice substance, locked up behind subtly firm tannins that are beginning to unfurl. Smoked oolong tea and cured meat flavors give this a savory edge, with notes of graphite shavings dusting plum skin and stewed cherry. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Clairette. Best from 2025 through 2030.
2021 Racines (90)
A racy, taut version, with high-toned floral aromatics sharing the stage with flavors of iodine and mesquite smoke. A salty, smoky meat note weaves through, infusing light red currant and raspberry accents on a light-to-medium frame. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette. Drink now through 2027.
2022 Au Petit Bonheur
Pale and polished, offering smooth flavors of mango and honeyed pear that glide through on a silky palate. Shows impressive weight yet stays fresh, with salty mineral notes nicely offsetting the supple, full feel. This distinctive style finishes with bitter pithiness and a smoke detail. Grenache, Clairette and Cinsault. Drink now. 450 cases imported.
WINE SPECTATOR – JAMES MOLESWORTH – DÉGUSTATION JANVIER 2022
2018 Vieux Télégraphe (95)
A nice throwback style, with a range of dried lavender and rosemary notes peeking out from a cedar-framed core of mulled cherry, blood orange and plum fruit. Features warm stone, licorice root and tobacco leaf accents that fill in through the energetic finish. A wine that’s very confident in its terroir. Best from 2024 through 2038. 2,495 cases imported.
JEB DUNNUCK – DÉGUSTATION OCTOBRE 2024
2023 Pigeoulet Rouge
Not yet bottled, the 2023 Vaucluse Pigeoulet has a pretty, perfumed nose of red fruits, sappy herbs, pine, and pepper. It’s lively, medium-bodied, elegant, and juicy.
2022 Télégramme (91)
The only wine produced in the vintage due to the devastating tornado just before the harvest, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme seems to be a mix of a normal Vieux Télégraphe and a Télégramme. Black raspberries, darker cherries, peppery garrigue, and a Grand Vin sense of salty minerality define the aromatics, and it’s medium-bodied on the palate, has rock-solid ripeness, plenty of tannins, and outstanding length. It doesn’t have the elegance of the Grand Vin in its tannins, but it’s clearly a beautiful Télégramme.
2023 Télégramme (91-93)
Tasted as a final blend, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is classic stuff all the way, offering beautiful black raspberry and darker cherry fruit, medium-bodied richness, a round, layered, elegant mouthfeel, and some classic Châteauneuf du Pape peppery garrigue, violet, and lavender nuances. It’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate.
2022 Piedlong (94)
The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong comes from the pebbly soils of the Piedlong lieu-dit (although I always find a certain sandy terroir-like influence from this vineyard) and is mostly Grenache. Black raspberries, wild strawberries, spring flowers, chalky minerality, and peppery nuances all emerge from this beauty, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a silky, elegant style. It has a kiss of Pignan-like style, and I love its overall elegance and finesse. It’s going to drink nicely over the coming 10-12 years.
2023 Piedlong (91-93)
Mostly Grenache, the medium ruby-hued 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong has a pretty nose of wild strawberries and flowers as well as some spicy, loamy earth-like nuances. It’s medium-bodied, elegant, and quite pretty on the palate, with a seamless, ethereal, Burgundy-like texture.
2022 Clos Roquète (94)
Pear, honeyed flowers, spice, and some chalky, mineral notes all define the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Roquete Blanc, a beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied white that has a round, layered texture, the fresher, focused style of Clairette, and a great finish.
2023 Clos Roquète (93)
The 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Roquete Blanc is slightly more fresh and focused, with beautiful stone fruits, white flowers, and mineral notes in its more medium-bodied, focused, fresh, and lively style. It has a freshness and purity that reminds me of the 2021, and it shines for its elegance and purity. It should have at least a decade of longevity.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (97)
The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc might be one of the best examples of this white that’ I’ve tasted. Incredible pear, white flowers, salty minerality, and hints of ripe citrus define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, has remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that’s brought up mostly in foudre (there’s a small part in demi-muids and barrel), it deserves 2-3 years in the cellar and will have two decades or more of overall longevity.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (97)
The 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc stopped me in my tracks and has an incredible sense of class. Fabulous stone fruits, honeyed orange, white flowers, and a beautiful sense of minerality all define this brilliant white, and it has nicely integrated background oak, medium to full body, a pure, layered, elegant mouthfeel, and a great finish. It’s a “wow” white that brings both richness and freshness. Drink bottles over the coming decade.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe (95)
The classic 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape checks in as 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah raised all in foudre. It’s another incredibly classic wine from this domaine that has beautiful red fruit (cherries, framboise) as well as a mineral-laced array of garrigue, sappy flowers, and crushed stone. With medium to full-bodied richness, a pure, elegant mouthfeel, and building tannins, it will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and have two decades of overall longevity.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AVRIL 2023
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is showing well. Mixing bright aromas of jasmine, dried lemon peel, lime zest, yellow apple, white peach, pineapple, dried ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, vibrant with a core of fresh acidity, it concludes with a sapid finish and a modestly salty aftertaste.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (94)
Vieux Télégraphe’s 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is a delicious blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Fragrant aromas of spring flowers, grapefruit, quince, lemon zest, white peach, melon and a flinty twist introduce this 2019 La Crau. It is a full-bodied, refined white with moderate levels of round acidity and great persistence on the finish.
2020 Télégramme (92)
Checking in at 15% alcohol, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme reveals aromas of predominantly ripe black fruits, strawberry compote, dried herbs, mint and licorice. It is a layered, full-bodied red with ample concentration, neatly balanced by fresh acidity concluding with a touch of heat on the savory finish.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau checks in at a moderate 13.5% alcohol. It displays enticing aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon peel, lime zest, white peach and hints of fresh coconut. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, the 2020 concludes with a sapid finish and will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next seven years.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was vinified from partially de-stemmed grapes and aged in foudre. The 2020 La Crau displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age.
2021 Télégramme (91-93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme shows the characteristics of the vintage well. Mingling aromas of crushed flowers, fresh raspberry and strawberry as well as dried herbs. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, layered, framed by a smooth tannin structure and balanced by lively acids.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is made from Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. It presents lively aromas of grapefruit, sping flowers, white peach and a pinch of mango. This medium-bodied wine hits the palate with excellent flavor concentration and crisp acidity, finishing bright and juicy.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe (93-95)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.
VINOUS – JOSH RAYNOLDS – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2021
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Brillant ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of ripe raspberry, blueberry, potpourri and garrigue, along with an exotic spice nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Subtly chewy and expansive in the mouth, showing impressive energy to its intense, mineral-laced red and blue fruit preserve, candied lavender and spicecake flavors. Finishes sappy and impressively long, with resonating spice and floral notes and harmonious tannins adding gentle grip.
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Shimmering ruby-red. Expansive red fruit preserve, lavender and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of incense with air. Gently chewy and energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that flesh out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive depth but comes off lively, finishing extremely long and spicy, with building tannins adding final grip.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (95)
Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched red/blue fruit liqueur aromas pick up suggestions of licorice, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers and herbs with air. In a lush, weighty style, offering expansive black raspberry, cherry cola, singed plum and fruitcake flavors sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. For all this wine’s richness, it’s energetic as well, showing solid, spice and floral-driven persistence on the finish, which is framed by velvety, even tannins.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2024
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
Attention-grabbing notes of flintstone, lemon flesh, ripe pear and dried flowers introduce the multifaceted 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau, a medium-bodied white with remarkable freshness. Carrying spot-on balance, the tasty 2017 sits in a beautiful drinking spot, where I suspect it will remain for five more years. A long and sapid finish wraps it up.
2022 Télégramme (92)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme kicks off with crushed violets, ripe raspberry, wild strawberry and a pinch of dried herbs. Leafy gradations add more complexity. Round and elegant, the full-bodied 2022 walks off the stage with persistence on the juicy finish. What a lovely Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2022 Piedlong (94)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape PiedLong is a beauty. Prominent raspberry compote, ripe strawberry, melted licorice, dried herbs and peppery nuances rise up from the glass. Supported by ripe and sleek tannins, the full-bodied 2022 is loaded with intensity, wrapping up with endurance on the powerful finish. There’s no doubt that this is a long-distance runner. Readers should note that Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a 2022 La Crau due to the devastating hail damage in August.
2023 Télégramme (90-92)
The spicy and red-fruited 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme is shaping up to become yet another rock-solid red Châteauneuf from the talented Brunier family. Anchored by polished tannins, the fruit-driven and expressive 2023 checks out with a refreshing finish.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (92)
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is delightful, offering a fresh and fragrant bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, accented by a hint of green apple. The 2023 delivers ample energy on the medium-to full-bodied palate an exits with a refined finish. As with the red, Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau in 2022 vintage due to the devastating August hailstorms.
2023 Piedlong (91-93)
Vinified with 30% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pied Long blends 90% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre. Vivid orange blossom, wild strawberry, rosewater and spicy gradations are all dialed up. Touching the palate with ample freshness wrapped in smooth tannins, the 2023 packs remarkable elegance.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (92-94)
Vinified with 20% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau unwinds from the glass with fragrant rose petal, wild strawberry, licorice, and stemmy subtleties. Juicy and expressive, the full-bodied 2023 is immediately alluring, precisely balance and remarkably elegant on the complex finish. I can’t wait to taste it from bottle.
WINE ADVOCATE – YOHAN CASTAING – DÉGUSTATION OCTOBRE 2024
2021 Vieux Telegraphe Rouge (95)
Delicate aromas of spices, licorice, garrigue, dark berries and dark cherries preface the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is framed around velvety, elegant tannins, with good depth at the core and a pure, precise texture that segues into a long, delicate and ethereal finish. Superb!
2022 Télégramme (92)
A blend of 85% Grenache and the rest of Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre, the 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme offers up aromas of flowers, dark cherries and dark wild berries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, structured and concentrated palate with velvety tannins and a long, dense finish. More austere than previous vintages, this iteration stands out as a commendable rendition within the context of the vintage.
2022 Les Pallières – Racines (94)
A dense, deep bouquet of dark cherries, flowers, spices and garrigue prefaces the 2022 Gigondas Les Racines, a medium to full-bodied, tense and perfectly balanced Gigondas with fine-grained, good depth at the core enhanced by a crystalline, delicate texture and a saline, harmonious finish. Refined, chiseled and intensely perfumed, this wine is a blend of 85% Grenache Noir (40% destemmed) and 15% Syrah and Cinsault.
2022 Les Pallières – Terrasse du Diable (93)
A blend of 90% Grenache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre, the 2022 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable from the Brunier Family (which also owns Domaine Vieux Télégraphe) reveals aromas of dark cherries, mulberries and spices mingled with delicate notes of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enrobing, it’s velvety on attack with good depth at the core and a long, precise and delicate finish. This is a charming, beautifully executed Gigondas that promises to age gracefully over the next decade or more.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE : SPECIAL LA PROVENCE EN BLANC N 57 – ETE 2024
Ce soir c’est mistral, ciel bleu dur comme l’eau d’un lac profond, jour pourpre déclinant, bourgeons vert tendre agités par l’ami qui assèche, éloigne les maladies, galets roulés ocre luisant
sur le plateau royal de La Crau, grande scène où se joue le concerto pour clairette, grenache blanc, roussanne, bourboulenc et 7 petits rangs de picpoul. À la baguette, ils ne sont pas trop de trois pour diriger cet orchestre végétal et interpréter tous les jours la partition minérale qui accueille ces instruments anciens. Manon et Nicolas Brunier sont les enfants de Frédéric, Édouard est le fils de Daniel. Les deux frères ont longtemps porté le destin du Vieux Télégraphe, domaine mondialement connu de Châteauneuf. Depuis un an, c’est le trio de cousins qui joue le grand œuvre, les deux paternels sont désormais les conseillers spéciaux et rapprochés des jeunes.
Le plateau de La Crau, c’est un sol fascinant, un mulch de pavasses roulées jadis par le Rhône, dessous c’est du sable et des galets mélangés, puis une atmosphère sablo-limoneuse et des galets encore et puis un horizon d’argile rouge, aussi des galets et à nouveau de l’argile et des gros galets. Ça, c’est le principe minéral, le milieu dans lequel plongent les racines des vieilles vignes de blanc, 70 ans de moyenne, un siècle pour les clairettes. Le génie de cette terre, c’est la pulsation hydrique qui étanche la soif de la vigne quand elle en a besoin. Aux Pins, sur une inclinaison douce du plateau, de la roussanne et du picpoul plantés plein sud sur des marnes, les premiers à être vendangés. Au-dessus, la parcelle des Chênes, sur la fin de colluvions posées sur une dalle d’argile, du bourboulenc, moitié en gobelet, moitié palissée. Au plein plateau, sur des terrasses alluviales, des cailloux par milliasses, du sable et des argiles, les grenaches blancs de Galéan et, sur son plat, la clairette et le bourboulenc. Derrière-Est, à l’épicentre du plateau, en blanc depuis toujours, des clairettes de 1920, la diversité des massales et des clones de qualité, « l’important c’est la diversité », et puis voici Bérard, au flanc du couchant les clairettes sur des safres, juste à côté le plantier des blancs, les 4 cépages principaux en mémoire palissée ou gobelet, enfin Mousset, 20 ans de bourboulenc. Une rare diversité de climats dont les complants sont fournis par Bérillon, compositeur pépiniériste. L’ensemble des touches de ce clavier quand la main des hommes l’a parcouru, ça fait à peu près 7 hectares sur les 85 du domaine de Bédarrides.
Pour la maturité, le trio s’en remet au coup d’œil sur les baies, aux analyses itou. « Comme on est sur des vins d’assemblage, on goûte les jus comme des vins, pour une vision globale. On va chercher un équilibre. On est les premiers à vendanger dans les coins qui mûrissent tôt. On bénéficie de l’expérience des générations précédentes et des textes de mémoire du Vieux Télé- graphe, cette histoire de maturité est le résultat d’une observation constante de chaque personnage parcellaire, on s’adapte à leur vécu de l’année. Notre agriculture emprunte les itinéraires du bio, on se laisse une marge de manœuvre, on exerce une pro- phylaxie sur le végétal, par exemple on aère avec discernement tout en laissant de l’ombre fraîche au fruit, on sélectionne les tiges à l’ébourgeonnage et le climat salvateur fait le reste. »
Selon les années, on s’arrête quand il fait chaud, ça tombe bien, souvent le pressoir est plein, on en fait un seul par jour. En 2020, on fit un assemblage général à la récolte, en 2021 il fallut isoler 7 lots, élevés seuls pendant dix mois. Pas de protection SO2, « ce qui doit s’oxyder s’oxyde ». On débourbe à 13-14 °C et zou en cuve béton pour le début de fermentation alcoolique qui se poursuit en foudre de 30, 20 hectos, demi- muid et un peu de barrique. La malo se fait naturellement à 18 °C, « on y gagne en profondeur ». On cherche les amers nobles et on les trouve, « c’est pour ça qu’on fait ce blanc ». Fin, élégant, riche de l’énergie du terroir, c’est l’harmonie d’une composition florale, de fruits juteux, d’abricot, de pêche, de poire, l’âme minérale y glisse son aile d’ange. / JEAN-LUC BARDE
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JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR JAMES SUCKLING – AVRIL 2024
VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2023
Subtle, elegant and very refined white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It shows aromas of citrons, pears, wild herbs, fennel and blanched almonds. It’s medium-bodied with balance and a refined character throughout. Textural, caressing, precise and silky on the mid-palate. Flavorful and harmonious with a focused finish. Drink or hold. 95 pts
TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021
This is a stunning, well-balanced and crunchy Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Fresh and precise. It shows notes of red berries, cherries, bay leaves, wild herbs and baking spices. Medium -to full- bodied with fine tannins. It has a bright center-palate with freshness and harmony. It’s vibrant and zesty with a similar long finish. Drink or hold. 94 pts
VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2023
Fresh forest berry, savory and wet earth aromas are married to a lovely freshness and fine tannins on the lively medium-to full-bodied palate. Very elegant finish that teases you with all its subtle nuances. A cuvee of 70% grenache, 15% syrah and 15% mourvedre. Drink or hold. 95 pts
PIEDLONG– CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021
I love the ripe red plum aroma of this generous and polished 2021. Stacks of fine tannins give it a very sensuous texture that makes it difficult to say no. Very long, velvety finish with excellent spicy complexity. From grenache growing on galet cobblestone soil and a small amount of mourvedre grown on sand that are fermented separately. Drink ok hold. 94 pts
CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2023
Intense and aromatic, with so much texture to it. Notes of dried lemons, dried herbs, pears, blanched almonds and anise. Full-bodied with a well-rounded, suave and ample development on the palate. Plenty of dried herb character and vibrant spices. Creamy but agile. Drink or hold. 95 pts
CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2022
A spectacular white, spicy, balanced and harmonious, with aromas of baked lemons, anise, honeysuckle, warm herbs and a touch of blanched almonds. It’s medium- to full-bodied with precise definition on the palate. Lively and vibrant with a caressing texture at the edges. The center-palate is vibrating with tension. Long finish. Drink or hold. 95 pts
PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE BLANC 2023
A well-rounded, creamy and vivid blend of 60% clairette, 20% roussanne, 10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. It shows aromas of dried lemons, apples, wild herbs and white flowers. Medium-bodied with a delicious center-palate. Supple and refreshing. Aromatic finish with some bitter almond character. Drink now. 92 pts
PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE ROUGE 2022
A vivid, juicy yet serious red with notes of cherries, strawberries, crushed raspberries and some roasted black pepper. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Lively and spicy, with pure fruit character at the center and some dried herbs lifting the finish. Drink now. 92 pts
PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE BLANC 2022
Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne, 10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brnier Family lives. Drink now. 91 pts
MEGAPHONE – VENTOUX 2022
A well-crafted, balanced and lively red with aromas of red berries, dried herbs, stones and baking spices. It’s medium-to-full-bodied with fine tannins. Vivid and quite intense at the entry with a kick of spices bringing energy. Plenty of verve and wildness to the clear fruit character and a precise finish. Drink or hold. 92 pts
PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE ROUGE 2023
A delicious, juicy and mellow red with notes of strawberries, raspberries and mild spices. It’s medium-bodied with fine tannins. Well-rounded, creamy and fruit-driven, with a sublte touch of spices. Vivid and well done. Drink now. 92 pts
MEGAPHONE – VENTOUX 2023
A succulent red, bright and delicious, with aromas of small berries, dried thyme and baking spices. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a bright, crunchy center-palate. It has pure fruit character at the center complemented by a touch of peppercorns, bringing vivacity and energy toward the finish. Drink or hold. 93 pts
TERRASSE DU DIABLE – LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS 2021
At once fresh, meaty and earthy, with candied orange freshness. This is concentrated and elegant, with crisp tannins that drive it over the medium-to-full-bodied palate. There’s terrific mountain freshness in the vibrant finish. A cuvee based on grenache with some mourvedre, mostly from high-altitude vineyards. Drink or hold. 95 pts
RACINES – LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS 2021
Concentrated and silky with fine, fantastic tannins for the 2021 vintage, this is earthy and meaty with excellent concentration and a very long, firm yet polished finish. A cuvee based on grenache from vines growing around the winery. Should age extremely well. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. 95 pts
AU PETIT BONHEUR – LES PALLIERES VIN DE FRANCE 2023
A pleasant, mellow and delicious rosé. It has aromas of dried lemons, wild herbs and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with a fresh core of yellow fruit and plenty of energy. Round and textural. A blend of grenache, clairette and cinsault. Drink now. 91 pts
TERRE DE VINS – MARIE-PIERRE DELPEUCH – DÉGUSTATION LE 1 FÉVRIER 2024
DOMAINE LES PALLIERES, L’ÉCRIN TOTAL
C’est un lieu niché au bout du monde que la famille Brunier préserve amoureusement. Une terre où elle élève des Gigondas aux personnalités captivantes.
Dans cet écrin de verdure de 130 hectares, 25 sont dévolus à la vigne. Distribuée en restanques, datant de l’époque où le cheval façonnait les paysages, elle profite d’une exposition nord-est. L’on comprend aisément que les frères Brunier, Daniel et Frédéric, dont la réputation du Vieux Télégraphe n’est plus à faire, ont eu un coup de cœur. En 1998, ils s’associent à leur ami importateur américain Kermit Lynch, pour acquérir le domaine Les Pallières à la famille Roux.
Maison, bâtiments agricoles, cave forment un hameau. Il y a même une chapelle construite par un lointain ancêtre qui laisse présager d’un train de vie confortable. Ici, coule une source, assez vaillante pour alimenter trois bassins. Inépuisable, même en période de canicule, elle assure le ravitaillement pour tous les travaux agricoles. Il y a peu, un troupeau de 60 chèvres Rove complété l’image d’Épinal d’une époque, pas si lointaine, où les vignerons vivaient de la polyculture, presque en autarcie. « Mon bonheur, c’est de construire ici. C’est un bijou », assure Daniel Brunier. Vingt ans après la construction de la cave et alors que son fils Édouard et ses neveux Manon et Nicolas reprennent les rênes des domaines, il a fait rénover l’écurie pour en faire un caveau. Le menuisier Philippe Mathieu a conservé intact la personnalité rustique et humble du lieu, en y associant une touche contemporaine. Ici, on peut déguster toute la gamme depuis les Ventoux jusqu’aux Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chaque vin à sa propre personnalité avec la signature du terroir dont il est issu. Ils ont pour fil conducteur une liberté maîtrisée, dont l’élevage révèle les subtilités sans les masquer. Exemple avec deux cuvées en AOC Gigondas et un ovni revendiqué rosé, aux allures de blanc.
Terre de Vins a aimé
Au petit bonheur Vin de France rosé 2022 – 15 €
Un blanc de noir composé de clairette, grenache, cinsault, vinifiés et élevés en foudre de 20 hl et en demi-muids venus de Châteauneuf. La robe est blanche, à peine rosée. Bien ouvert, c’est un paysage de fruits secs, d’herbes folles, de foin d’été, de fleur d’acacia où la touche subtile du bois est rémanente. Sa bouche mêle légère tension et rondeur.
Les Terrasses du Diable Gigondas rouge 2021 – 32 €
85 % de grenache, dont 40 % non égrappé et 15 % de mourvèdre, qui culminent à 400 mètres d’altitude, élevés 20 mois en foudre. C’est un bouquet capiteux de roses anciennes. Les premières notes de pruneau et de figue apparaissent et s’associent aux tanins encore marqués. Il faut l’oublier avec sérénité.
Racines Gigondas rouge 2021 – 42 €
Des vieilles vignes de grenache (80 %), syrah, cinsault et clairette complantés. À l’aération, il offre un univers de garrigue. Le cinsault et la clairette apportent une touche de vitalité, la syrah les épices et une finale un peu végétale. Son caractère est tout en relief. Il s’arrondira avec le temps.
https://www.terredevins.com/actualites/domaine-les-pallieres-lecrin-total
JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023
GIGONDAS
Domaine Les Pallières, Les Racines 2022
17. Cask sample. Very appealing and vibrant nose, which is packed full of drack fruit, thyme and herbal notes. A rich, dense, compact palate with lavender, garrigue and firm but succulent tannins – lovely extraction. Liquorice and leather on the textured finish. Plush and structure.
Drink 2025 – 2033
Domaine Les Pallières, Terrasse du Diable 2022
16,5. Cask sample. Crushed red fruits, garrigue. The nose is spiced ans has crushed strawberry, sweet fruit and nice, structured tannins. Applealing and needs some years, but well balanced ; the alcohol is not overpowering and there is a freshness to the finish.
Drink 2024 – 2030
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme 2022
17. Cask sample. Juicy, lively, inviting nose. Notes of tabasco and white pepper. Sweet, succulent, tight tannins. Surprisingly open and ready already, yet still has texture and structure.
Drink 2025-2034
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2022
17. Cask sample. Brimming with red fruits. A real sweetness and firm tannins on the attack – an earthy and spiced note on the mid palate and a rich, layered finish. Pretty sweet sensation of fruit here. Attractive and great concentration of fruit. A baby but shows great potential.
Drink 2028-2040
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Clos Roquète 2022
Fresh and honeyed nose. Rich palate and some sweetness. Really textured and weighty, with a warming richness on the finish. Honey, marzipan and fennel. Ripe and layered.
Drink 2027-2036
WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023
The heart of the expanding Brunier family empire, this is one of the best-known estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, thanks to the family’s obsession with quality and the long-term association with pioneering American importer Kermit Lynch. Other Brunier properties in the region include Clos la Roquête and Piedlong, listed separately but also tasted at Vieux Télégraphe with the gracious Daniel Brunier. The previous summer had not been kind to Vieux Télégraphe, as a violent, tornadic hailstorm struck la Crau the night of August 14-15, 2022. « It was an incredible tornado, » said Brunier. « It destroyed everything in 15 minutes. » All of the fruit that was left subsequently went into the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme—there are no Vieux Télégraphe La Crau bottlings from 2022. « There was a big mistral after the hail, » said Brunier, which allowed the damaged grapes to dry up without spreading rot to anything that was spared. « We ended up picking about four or five hectoliters per hectare from La Crau, » said Brunier. « There were so few grapes, we picked 80 hectares in five days. » Yet all wasn’t somber at Vieux Télégraphe. Brunier quite likes the 2021 vintage, characterizing it as, « a fine, elegant, balanced year. Compared to 2020, it was a bit more normal, with some rain during harvest, which was important for the style of the wine. Generally, speaking, I like the ‘lightness’ of the vintage. I believe in this kind of vintage. We have a classic V.T. » The 2021 V.T. is a solid effort, in line with the family’s recent efforts to get more elegance in their wines. And the white wine shouldn’t be overlooked, either. For more details on Clos la Roquête and Piedlong, please see those listings.2020 Vieux Télégraphe – (93-95)
2021 Vieux Télégraphe – (92-94)
Still in tank when I visited in June 2023, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features scents of crushed stone accenting ripe cherries and hints of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers taut acids allied to silky tannins and ample length on the finish. It’s not a huge blockbuster, but it fits nicely with the Brunier family’s evolution toward more elegance in their wines. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
2022 Piedlong – (94-96)
Taking its name from a lieu-dit, Piedlong is a Brunier family project focused on Grenache Noir from sandy soils, in contrast to the galets roulés that characterize the La Crau bottling from Vieux Télégraphe. The usual blend is 90% Grenache from le Pied Long and 10% Mourvèdre from Pignan. This is a lighter-hued, more ephemeral expression of Grenache and CdP, yet it’s one that can still possess ample aging potential. The 2021 is particularly successful in a challenging vintage, even if it is more of an early-drinker.
A superb effort, Piedlong’s 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is the same blend as typical—90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre—but a step up in quality compared to the 2021. From sandy soils, it delivers delicate florals, alpine strawberries and garrigue-like notes, while being full-bodied, ripe and round in the mouth. Silky, with bright acids, it finishes long, spicy and zesty. Impressive.
2021 Piedlong – (92-94)
Tasted just prior to bottling, Piedlong’s 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from the lieu-dit of the same name. Scents of roses, red berries and citrus zest appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is silky and elegant, with a hint of cracked pepper on the lingering finish.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93
Bottled just one week before my 2022 visit, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was showing no ill effects then and confirmed its quality when I retasted it in June 2023. Effusive notes of citrus, white peach and pineapple burst from the glass, while in the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, plump and rounded, with a silky feel and a charming note of fennel on the lingering, refreshing finish. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
2022 Clos Roquète – (92-94)
Roughly one-third each Clairette, Grenache and Roussanne, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was still awaiting bottling at the end of June 2023. Hints of honey accent ripe pineapple aromas in this medium to full-bodied wine, which is plump and round in the mouth, yet it finishes bright and zesty, with ample citrusy length.
2021 Clos Roquète – 92
The 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a rather zesty and crisp style with scents of lime and pink grapefruit on the nose. Just medium-bodied, it’s plump and round, showing some lees influence, then clean, refreshing and long, showing excellent intensity and a distinctive character. Tasted twice, with consistent notes..
2022 Télégramme – (91-94)
Showing more concentration and intensity than normal, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme also delivers strawberry and cherry notes. It’s medium to full-bodied, with ample tannin and length. I’m sure the quality of this cuvée is scant consolation for the complete loss of the family’s La Crau bottling to hail, but customers should recognize the Bruniers’ efforts to maintain their high standards.
2021 Télégramme – 91
The plump, succulent 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme offers cheerful strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant fruit. It’s medium to full-bodied, silky and elegant, offering plenty of near-term enjoyment. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
LA RVF: CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021, TOUT EN DÉLICATESSE – N°674 OCTOBRE 2023
Millésime après millésime, le vignoble de Châteauneuf-du-Pape ne cesse de nous fasciner par la diversité de ses terroirs, le goût de ses vins, mais aussi par son histoire car son syndicat célèbre cette année ses 100 ans. Oublions l’image d’Epinal véhiculée par les galets roulés, qui n’est que la partie émergée de cette appellation méridionale de la Vallée du Rhône, et concentrons nous sur son sous-sol riche en argile et en safres, véritable réservoir pour maintenir la terre humide, condition indispensable à l’épanouissement du vignoble.
Preuve en est, […] le célèbre domaine du Vieux Télégraphe a eu la bonne idée de […] créer un lieu de stockage où quelques milliers de bouteilles pourront vieillir sereinement une à plusieurs décennies. Un endroit parfait pour explorer les entrailles de l’appellation, car en franchissant la porte qui sépare leur chai de cette cave sous forme de galerie, nous avons été saisis par la fraîcheur et l’humidité qui régnaient dans ce lieu. Une température constante de 14° C tout au long de l’année, avec une humidité digne d’une crayère champenoise. Une cave creusée dans un matériau compact tel un sable compressé d’une densité incroyable et qui n’a nécessité aucune armature pour soutenir les galeries voûtées, à l’image de celles creusées dans le tuffeau dans la Vallée de la Loire. […]
« Il se passe quelque chose d’assez extraordinaire à Châteauneuf-du-Pape »
Lire l’article complet ici
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 18 AVRIL 2023
VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
97 pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.
VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021
95 pts. Stunningly complex nose of dried flowers, beeswax and candied citrus peel. However, the interplay of richness and freshness on the palate tops it. Extremely long finish where the fine tannins build and build at the salty climax. A cuvee based on clairette with grenache blanc, roussanne and a little bourboulenc. Some of the vines date back more than a century, but the majority are about 40-50 years old. Drink or hold.
PIEDLONG – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
Very spicy and savory with grilled rosemary and dried flower nuances. Very powerful but extremely focused with a great mineral freshness and salinity, it’s really hard to believe this easily has 15% alcohol! Very fine tannins and a delicate vegetal quality that makes them feel even more lively. Long extremely animating finish with so much Mediterranean herb character. 90% grenache and 10% mourvedre. Drink or hold.
TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019
94 pts. An excellent introduction to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of damson plum, bitter chocolate and savory on the nose. Rich and dense but with plenty of vitality, and as it flows over the palate more and more spicy, wild herb and balsamic nuances emerge. A cuvee of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 6% mourvedre and 4% cinsault from a variety of terroirs within the appellation. Drink or hold.
CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020
94 pts. A powerful and bold white Chateauneuf with a lovely freshness. Plenty of melted butter character, but also stacks of floral honey and dried flowers. Beautiful integration of fine tannins and moderate acidity at the long finish. Single vineyard. There’s sandy soil, like at Rayas. A blend of one-third each of grenache blanc, clairette and roussanne. Drink or hold.
RACINES – GIGONDAS 2020
95pts. A very deep, dark and dense Gigondas that nonetheless has great balance and finesse. Great dried Mediterranean herb complexity, but also stacks of licorice. Then comes wonderful freshness at the powerful and velvety finish. 90% grenache, 5% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
TERRASSES DU DIABLE – GIGONDAS 2020
93 pts. Here’s a rich, but beautifully crafted Gigondas that’s brimming with red fruits and spice. Also notes of licorice and rosemary. Impressive interplay of generous earthy tannins and damson plum richness at the ample finish. Drink or hold.
PIGEOULET BLANC – VIN DE PAYS VAUCLUSE 2022
91 pts. Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne,10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brunier family lives. Drink now.
AU PETIT BONHEUR – VIN DE FRANCE 2022
92 pts. Very distinctive nose of quince, ripe pear, orange blossom and rose. Mouth-filling richness and a wonderful creamy texture pull you onto their magic carpet and take you for a ride. Then the restrained tannins come through and give the finish a wonderful tension in spite of the soft acidity. A blanc de noirs made from grenache and cinsault, fermented and matured in 600-liter wooden casks. Drink now.
DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2021 – 92-94
The Grand Vin is always from the heart of the La Crau lieu-dit and is 65% Grenache with the balance Mourvedre and Syrah. The 2021 saw about 30% stems and is being brought up in foudre. It has a beautiful core of red fruits (strawberries and redcurrants) as well as classic notes of crushed stone, pepper, garrigue, and sandalwood. Playing in the medium-bodied, elegant, seamless end of the spectrum, it has fine tannins and outstanding length. It’s a pretty, silky, impressive 2021 with class.
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE BLANC 2021 – 97
The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc might be one of the best examples of this white that’ I’ve tasted. Incredible pear, white flowers, salty minerality, and hints of ripe citrus define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, has remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that’s brought up mostly in foudre (there’s a small part in demi-muids and barrel), it deserves 2-3 years in the cellar and will have two decades or more of overall longevity.
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE BLANC 2020 – 96
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is showing even better today than when I tasted it last year. Pear, stone fruits, and crushed stone as well as a kiss of black licorice emerge on the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a great mid-palate, flawless balance, and a wonderful sense of freshness and purity. Give bottles another year or two, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 15+ years.
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2020 – 94
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape also showed well, with a lighter, elegant style that still brings plenty of intensity. Black cherries, mulberries, dried violets, and loamy earth define the bouquet, and it’s medium-bodied, balanced, and finesse-driven on the palate, with ripe tannins as well as a terrific sense of salinity on the finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15+.
CLOS ROQUETE 2021 – 94
I always love this white, and the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc Clos Roquete Blanc is no exception. Pure, clean, and elegant, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe lemon, honeysuckle, and white flowers, it has a pretty, seamless, impeccably balanced profile and is already impossible to resist.
PIEDLONG 2021 – 90-92
The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong comes from a site in the center of the appellation and is mostly Grenache. It’s another pretty, elegant wine from this estate and has a floral character as well as notes of ripe cherries, darker strawberries, spice, and garrigue. It has fine tannins, good balance, and outstanding length.
PIEDLONG 2020 – 93
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong is lighter ruby-hued, and despite coming from pebbly soils, I would have guessed it came from a sandy terroir if tasted blind. Strawberries, cherries, white flowers, and a touch of chalky minerality define the nose, and it’s medium-bodied and finesse-driven on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins. Readers that love a more Burgundian style in their Châteauneuf du Pape should seek this puppy out.
TELEGRAMME 2021 – 89-91
Production was down 30% due to frost, but the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is solid, with a medium-bodied, fresh, and lively style as well as attractive darker berry fruits, peppery herbs, and a kiss of minerality. It’s an elegant, balanced wine that will drink nicely for 5-7 years, probably longer.
TELEGRAMME 2020 – 92
Leading off the 2020s now from bottle, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is round, expansive, and has plenty of volume, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, ground pepper, and Provençal garrigue. It’s balanced, has ripe tannins, brings plenty of fruit and intensity, and is perfect for drinking over the coming decade.
PIGEOULET ROUGE 2021 – 87-88
Mostly Grenache yet with more Carignan due to frost, the 2021 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet has a charming, forward, delicious, and ready-to go-style as well as classic peppery dark fruits, violets, and hints of flowers. It will be a rock-solid daily drinker.
PIGEOULET BLANC 2021 – 89
Coming from the Ventoux and Côtes Du Rhône regions, the 2021 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc is a quality white from this estate that has crisp aromatics of sliced apple, pear, and hints of citrus. It’s medium-bodied and nicely balanced on the palate, and one heck of a house white to enjoy over the coming couple of years, if not longer.
ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION SEPT. 2021
I arrived at VT during the 2021 harvest; they hadn’t picked the previous two days, waiting for the vineyards to dry out a bit after the second of two rain events. « You can’t have two storms like this without having some effect on structure and concentration, » said Daniel Brunier. « Here, at least, we had no [spring] frost, but we lost 80% in the Ventoux. » Although I tasted those wines during this visit, the Famille Brunier wines from other appellations will be covered in the next installment of Southern Rhône coverage. Piedlong is still listed here, while Clos la Roquete has its own listing, basically since that’s the way they’ve long been listed in our database. Going forward, those, too, will be listed under the Famille Brunier umbrella. Looking at the 2019s and 2020s from this historic estate in quick succession, the differences between the vintages were readily apparent, with the 2019s being darker-fruited and perhaps a bit more structured. « The vintages are brothers, » said Brunier. « The tannins in ’19 are a bit more dry. It’s rare to have two vintages together that are so similar. The differences are there, but not that much. The biggest difference is in the tannin structure. « The 2020 vintage was very dry until the end—maybe a bit too dry—but the rains in November and December 2019 helped, and the low yield means you don’t see the dryness, because the vines didn’t suffer. Harvest began August 22 or 23, and we finished on September 19. The fruit was so clean, the weather so dry, it was easy to pick. » A visit to Vieux Telegraphe also means a chance to revisit past vintages, so Brunier opened bottles of the 2011 and 2001. « Arriving after 2010, which was great, I don’t have a good memory of that vintage [2011], » said Brunier. But the wine showed well, mature and nicely evolved yet still offering a few more years of drinkability. Of 2001, Brunier remarked, « It was a normal summer, normal rain at normal times, with no big, defining feature. But this is the kind of vintage I can drink a bottle by myself. It’s not a big vintage by the numbers, but it has aged well because it is balanced. » Amen to that.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe – (93-95)
Tasted as a tank sample of the final blend, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is a blend of approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties, with about 30% whole bunches used in the ferments. Marked by ripe cherries and hints of complex garrigue notes on the nose, it’s full-bodied but also really elegant, with fine-grained, silky tannins, ample concentration and a long, surprisingly crisp finish.
2011 Vieux Télégraphe – 93
Showing beautifully on this occasion, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a bit of bricking, with hallmark notes of iodine, sweet red cherries and a delicate touch of fine leather. Medium to full-bodied and bolstered by soft tannins, it finishes long, with notes of salted licorice. I wouldn’t plan on holding it much longer, but it should please those looking for a mature bottle over the next few years.
2001 Vieux Télégraphe – 95
Showing a bit of brick at the rim, Vieux Telegraphe’s 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape remains a wonderfully complex, vibrant wine. Marked by scents of pressed flowers, a hint of button mushrooms and plenty of cherry-raspberry fruit, it’s medium to full-bodied and silky textured, finishing long and complex.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe – 96+
The 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is a hugely successful vintage, marked by scents of sun-warmed stones, garrigue, black cherries and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it finishes with tremendous length and softly dusty tannins, which should help ensure a long, positive evolution.
2020 Piedlong – (94-96)
The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong is 90% Grenache from the lieu-dit le Pied Long (sometimes written as one word), plus 10% Mourvèdre from Pignan, so sandy soils—in contrast to Vieux Telegraph’s preponderance of la Crau’s galets roulés. At 50% whole bunches, it’s a bit stemmy and herbal but also soaring and gorgeous on the nose, with scents of roses, menthol, cherries and raspberries. Full-bodied but airy in feel and silky in texture, with a long, lingering finish, it looks to be pretty special this vintage.
2019 Piedlong – 95
From largely sandy soils, and composed of 90% Grenache (the other 10% is Mourvèdre from the Pignan lieu-dit, also sandy), the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong delivers scents of black cherries and ripe plums, tinged with hints of menthol and green stemminess. Give it a couple of years in the cellar, and it should be singing, as it’s full-bodied, rich and velvety, while remaining long, vibrant and mouthwatering on the finish.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93
Coming from a single parcel of 50- to 55-year-old vines in la Crau, Vieux Telegraph’s 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of roughly 45% Clairette and 30% Grenache Blanc, with the balance split equally between Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Two-thirds were matured in foudre, with the other third matured in demi-muids, leading to a slightly honeyed nose with hints of toasted grain and gently warmed pineapple. It’s full-bodied and creamy, balanced by a hint of bitterness on the long finish.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93
Hitting on all cylinders, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc boasts enchanting aromas of toasted grain, honeyed pears and ripe pineapple, with what seems like a bit of mocha or struck match as well. It’s full-bodied, on the rich, corpulent side, but not overdone, remaining clean and citrusy-fresh on the lengthy finish.
2020 Clos Roquète – 92
From 40-year-old vines on sandy soils, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, matured in demi-muids and foudres. Hints of honey, toasted grain and ripe pineapple appear on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is clean, fresh and citrusy, finishing with an appealingly silky texture and ample length.
2019 Clos Roquète – 93
A blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc features notes of honey, wood spice (it’s matured in foudres and demi-muids) and pineapple. Full-bodied, rich and expansive without being heavy, it finishes with hints of citrus, a slightly chalky feel and plenty of length.
2020 Télégramme – (91-93)
Comprising old vines not from la Crau or le Pied Long (two years ago, the Bruniers purchased eight hectares of 60-year-old Grenache, specifically for this cuvée) and young vines from those lieux-dits, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme delivers pretty notions of strawberries and raspberries, plus just a hint of chocolate. Full-bodied but silky, fine and elegant, this looks like the finest wine I’ve tasted under this label—a solid wine of its own.
2019 Télégramme – 92
Full-bodied, rich and highly textural, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme is atypically concentrated and dense, reflecting the addition of more old-vine Grenache to the cuvée. Black cherries, salted licorice and dark chocolate all make appearances, and the wine finishes long and velvety.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 7 MARS 2022
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2019
97 pts. If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.
PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019
96 pts. This Chateauneuf beautifully marries the delicate floral side of grenache with stunning depth and lovely richness on the mid-palate. Wonderful, velvety finish that goes on and on, making you want more of this great beauty. Drink or hold.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020
95 pts. Plenty of fresh-nut character, plus notes of bread dough and candied lemon on the enticing nose. Rich and creamy palate, the underlining stony character complementing this very neatly. Long and complete finish with serious textural and mineral complexity. From the Domaine du Vieux Télégraph stable. Drink or hold.
LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2019
95 pts. Very dense and complex with aromas ranging from black plum to wild thyme, as well as hints of candied orange, smoke and dry earth. In spite of all the richness and concentration of this imposing Gigondas, the slightly rustic tannins give this a lot of drive and accentuate the freshness. Long, chalky finish. Drink or hold.
LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2019
96 pts. This shows the greatness that Gigondas is capable of. A huge wine, but with great structure and aromatic complexity that takes your breath away. Big black fruit, but so many herbal and savory nuances, then comes the long, smoky and meaty finish. Excellent aging potential. A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.
CLOS ROQUÈTE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020
94 pts. A powerful and mouth-filling white Chateauneuf with a very mineral personality and excellent textural complexity. The freshness makes this feel lighter than it really is. Long finish with plenty of dried-herb character. Has the potential to age for many years. A blend of 35% Clairette, 35% Roussanne and 30% grenache blanc from 40-year-old vines on sandy soil. Drink or hold.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2019
94 pts. Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold.
SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VENTOUX MÉGAPHONE 2020
92 pts. A fragrant and surprisingly elegant Ventoux with a healthy tannin structure on the medium body and nice freshness at the long, mineral finish. Drink now.
SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET ROUGE 2020
90 pts. A generous Vaucluse red with plenty of ripe-blackberry fruit and wild-herb aromas supported by supple tannins. Some smoke and pepper at the full, harmonious finish. A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 5% mourvèdre and 5% carignan. Drink now.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2020
96-97. Such a deep and meaty nose with a slew of wild-herb, savory and subtle balsamic notes. Then comes the expansive and very concentrated palate, which reveals so many spicy nuances as it rolls over the palate, the stunning fine tannins pushing the finish out even further. A grenach-based blend from 60-year-old vines.
PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
94-95. This beautiful Rhône red will delight Burgundy fans. A fragrant Châteauneuf, in which grenache shows its floral side. So juicy, but this glides over your palate, the balance of creamy richness and elegant tannins spot on. Long, graceful and delicate finish. A blend of 90% grenache and 10% mourvèdre.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2020
91-92. Both bright and fleshy, this is a very good introduction to Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Plenty of damson plum and bright cherry with a touch of plum-cake character. A solid core of tannins keeps the palate dry and straight. Good lenght, if not that complex at the finish.
LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2020
95-96. Enormously deep and powerful, but the full and fine tannins hold this mighty ship on course straight into the sunset. Great forest-berry aromas, but at the finish the wild-herb character expands and expands. Excellent aging potential! A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.
LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2020
94-95. Deep nose of damson plum and ripest blackberry with subtle savory, soy sauce and wild herb notes. Very powerful and expansive palate with a majoy tannin structure that gives this a lot of drive and energy. Long, concentrated finish with impressive freshness for this appellation. A blend of 90% grenache, 5% mourvèdre, and 5% clairette.
SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET 2021
89-90. Vivid blackberry fruit and slightly sappiness on the palate make this a refreshing red, in spite of the fullish body. Gently tannins support the clean finish nicely.
SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET BLANC 2021
89-90. Quite some yeasty character from sur-lie maturation with ripe yellow apple character and some herbal freshness. Generous body with discreet fruit, but a clean finish.
LES PALLIÈRES VIN DE FRANCE AU PETIT BONHEUR 2021
91-92. This pale rosé from the Gigondas appellation is all about textural complexity and elegance. Delicate peach and melon character. Long and supple, but clean finish.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE : LES MESSAGERS DE LA CRAU, VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022
C’est le miracle de la nature et l’œuvre des hommes, un sol pauvre, un dépouillement de pierres, un déferlement de galets roulés, un plateau ouvert aux quatre vents et la vision d’une famille, les Brunier, depuis plus d’un siècle et 6 générations. Sur le terroir de la Crau, royaume du grenache qui partage sa couronne avec quelques autres mais induit puissamment aux vins du Vieux Télégraphe leur charactère et leur âme, s’est écrit l’une des histoires les plus étonnantes de Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Reportage.
[…] Tout ça fait le génie du terroir de la Crau que l’intuition des joueurs de cartes avait flairé : réserve hydrique en allegro moderato au printemps et adagio l’été. […]
[…] Dans ces vins se tient le génie du terroir de la Crau : folle énergie, fraîcheur, pureté sensuelle et ciselure gravée en taille douce. […]
[…] C’est miracle et magie de voir les vignes sous l’accablant soleil étaler leur feuillage charnu à l’insolente verdeur quand ailleurs elle suffoquent. […]
[…] La tour de Claude Chappe a éteint ses feux depuis longtemps. Les signaux lumineux, aujourd’hui ce sont les vins du Vieux Télégraphe qui les envoient au vaste monde, à tous ceux qui aiment les grands vins de beauté d’Henri, Hippolyte, Jules et les autres Brunier, fils de la Crau. […]
Lire l’article complet ici
WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY : A VINTAGE TO CELEBRATE
JAMES MOLESWORTH
Rhône producers are crowing about their 2019s vintage, another vintage where the southern swath of the valley was drenched in sun and heat through the summer. The result is a set of bottlings marked by vivid fruit flavors and lush textures that allow the wines to glide. Maby will age on a fairly rapid (yet delicious) track, while the best examples have well-integrated grip for more serious cellaring.
Here’s a crop of late-release 2019s and a 2020 that missed my annual tasting report on the region (out now in Wine Spectator’s Feb. 28, 2022 issue), but can be explored here in our Insider Weekly. There are impressive wines from lesser-known domaines like Tour St.-Michel, led by vigneron Mireille Porte, as well as Raymond Usseglio, now under the hand of Stéphane Usseglio. There are also wines from more prominent names like Chapoutier, Giraud and Vieux Télégraphe. The latter two also account for two of this week’s Hot Wines: Giraud’s old-vine, Grenache-only cuvée and a spectacular 2020 white from the brothers Brunier.
This edition comes in just in time for the depths of winter, so cue the roasted game birds, mild mushrooms and truffles, and open up one of these delicious Rhône wines. — James Molesworth
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2019
93 points | $105 | 2,841 cases imported | Red
Silky and refined, with focused cherry puree, plum, reduction and raspberry coulis notes racing through, infused subtly with rose petal, warm stone and lavender hints. Features nice perfume through the finish. Grenache, Mouvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2036. — J.M.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WHITE LA CRAU 2020
95 points | $87 | 348 cases imported | White
Well-built, with a steady intensity to the waves of white peach, star fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and mirabelle plum. Delivers flashes of lemon shortbread and quinine through the finish, giving it both plump and racy elements. This is hard to lay off now, but it has some development ahead of it. Clairetty, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2030. — J.M.
PIEDLONG 2019
93 points | $65 | 400 cases imported | Red
Shows sneaky richness, as plus paste and cherry preserve notes unwine slowly, carried by silky yet substantial tannins. Features anise, black tea, and a late flash of shiso leaf, which add range through the finish. Alluring. Grenache and Mouvèdre. Best from 2023 through 2036. — J.M.
CLOS ROQUETE 2020
93 point | $59 | 150 cases imported | White
Vivid, with a mix of honeysuckle, white peach, star fruit, acacia, green plum and quinine notes that are racy, lively and well-detailed through the finish. Shows a lovely mineral echo at the end, too. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Drink now through 2026. — J.M.
EN MAGNUM – #16 / JUIN-JUILLET-AOUT 2019 – NICOLAS DEROUYN
LES MAGNUMS D’EN MAGNUM
L’inconnu de la rubrique : Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2016
[Pourquoi lui]
Je suis tombé dessus un jour par hasard avec l’impression de changer de dimension. À l’aveugle, je ne l’aurais jamais placé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Ce vin est issu d’un assemblage de deux parcelles, les grenaches de Piedlong et les mourvèdres de Pignan, pour 10 %. Du coup, la famille Brunier m’est apparue comme une bande de grands couturiers. Qu’elle est. J’en ai acheté plein.
[On l’aime parce que]
Une telle finesse vaut bien une messe, comme disait à peu près Sully. Est-ce l’âge élevé des vignes (70 ans), sont-ce les galets roulés, le vinificateur est-il un sorcier ?
[Combien et combien]
73 euros / 850 magnums
[Avec qui, avec quoi]
Rassemblez les plus capés de vos amis, baissez la lumière, passez à table. Vous allez enfin montrer à vos convives que vous êtes un maître du vin.
[il ressemble à quoi]
À un bourgogne tout en ciselure, en dentelle. Bref, il y a de l’enthousiasme dans la bouteille, vous allez adorer.
[La bonne heure du bonheur]
Déjà bon, il sera bon tout le temps. Je suis en quête d’un ou deux vieux millésimes, pour confirmer l’impression.
[Le hashtag]
#C9DPfirst
LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSEAUVE – GUIDE 2022
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE
Cette splendide propriété de Bédarrides, propriété de la famille Brunier, est l’un des crus majeurs de l’appellation. Elle dispose d’un vaste vignoble d’un seul tenant, entièrement situé sur le plateau de la Crau et produit des vins d’une qualité remarquable. Le rouge est l’un des plus complets de l’appellation, dans un style savamment mis au point par les Brunier, qui ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool, mais au contraire l’équilibre et le raffinement. Du clos-la-roquette, en passant par télégramme et piedlong, jusqu’au grand vin, tout est d’une grande précision aromatique et d’un équilibre magistral. Ici l’on préfère la finesse à la puissance.
98 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE 2019
La grande émotion de notre dégustation. Finesse de texture à couper de souffle, matière magnifique, fruit parfaitement mûr, avec cette impression folle d’évidence. L’évidence du grand vin, la tendresse en plus. Un modèle pour tous. Le cru est au sommet de son art.
96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, TÉLÉGRAMME 2019
Ce classique de l’appellation plaira par ses arômes de fruits rouges et noirs mûrs et par la profondeur de son corps. Ensemble satisfaisant, agréable et équilibre.
96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, PIEDLONG 2019
Merveilleux de finesse et de fruité aérien, tout l’ensemble préente en plus ce caractère incroyablement digeste qui le place un peu à part dans notre dégustation. C’est superbe. Une bouteille ne suffit pas, il faut acheter des magnums.
EN MAGNUM – LE NOUVEAU 2021 – HORS SÉRIES #1 – DÉCEMBRE 2020
LES DOMAINES
4 / 5 ÉTOILES – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE
Cette splendide propriété de Bédarrides, propriété de la famille Brunier, est l’un des crus majeurs de l’appellation. Elle dispose d’un vaste vignoble d’un seul tenant, entièrement situé sur le plateau de la Crau et produit des vins d’une qualité remarquable. Le rouge est l’un des plus complets de l’appellations, dans un style savamment mis au point par les Brunier, qui ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool, mais au contraire l’équilibre et le raffinement. Pour cela on joue sur l’encépagement complexe et l’on recherche la juste maturité. Les vinifications sont rudimentaires mais terriblement précises. Du clos-la0roquette, en passant par télégramme et piedlong, jusqu’au grand vin, tout est d’une grande précision aromatique et d’un équilibre magistral. Ici l’on préfère la finesse à la puissance.
3 / 5 ÉTOILES – DOMAINE DE LA ROQUÈTE
Le domaine appartient à la famille Brunier (Vieux Télégraphe) mais il dispose de ses propres installations dans le village de Châteauneuf, et son vignoble est indépendant. De fait, il se situe dans la zone de la Roquette (sables et sous-sol argilo-calcaire), sur le plateau du Pied-Long (galets) et les sables de Pignan.
LES VINS
18,5 / 20 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, LA CRAU ROUGE 2017
Grande race. Vin esthète, aux tannins fins et infiniment longs. Bouche aux contours de taffetas. Superge d’élégance.
17 / 20 – PIEDLONG 2017
Nez floral, délicat, de petits fruits rouges. Cerise rouge. Attaque très fine, ample, tannins fermes d’allonge moyenne. Joli vin dans un millésime solaire qui a gardé son éclat.
16 / 20 – TÉLÉGRAMME 2017
Finesse évidente, bouche délicate de demi-corps. Le manque de puissance d’empêche pas l’élégance. Tannins de qualité.
15,5 / 20 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, LA CRAU BLANC 2018
Étonnant de saveurs dans un corps léger et enlevé. La finale est remarquable de persistance et de précision. C’est beau.
DECANTER – PRODUCER PROFILE DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE PLUS 15 WINES TASTED – MATT WALLS – OCTOBER 9 2020
Fierce Independence
It was Henri Brunier who laid the first stone in 1891. He bought some land to the east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and gave it to his son, Hippolyte. ‘Why did he buy it? We don’t know,’ says Daniel. ‘It wasn’t even vines, it was woods.’
At this time, Châteauneuf was already internationally recognized for the quality of its wine, so even if clearing the land was hard work, deciding what to plant was less of a challenge. Hippolyte’s son Jules extended the domaine to 17ha and named it after a nearby stone tower that was used to transmit messages by semaphore.
The following generation, another Henri, enlarged the estate to 55ha before bequeathing it to current owners Daniel and Frédéric. Under their command, expansion has been rapid. They’ve grown their Châteauneuf holdings to 100ha, bought 20ha in and around Ventoux, acquired Domaine les Pallières in Gigondas with US importer Kermit Lynch, and created Massaya estate in Lebanon’s Beqaa Valley with partners Sami and Ramzi Ghosn.
Family members each have their own area of responsibility. Daniel’s duties are principally commercial, and his son, Edouard, 27, manages their three Rhône wineries. Frédéric and his son Nicolas, 30, concentrate more on the vineyards, and Frédéric’s daughter Manon works in the offices. When it comes to winemaking, however, everyone is involved. ‘The goal is that you don’t know who made it,’ says Daniel.
The use of winemaking consultants has become increasingly prevalent in Châteauneuf-du-Pape over the past few decades, but Daniel stresses that there is no outside influence over the winemaking at Vieux Télégraphe. Theirs is a fiercely independent estate. ‘It’s important to be ourselves,’ says Daniel, ‘and not to try to copy others.’
At a glance
Location: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, France
Winemakers: Daniel, Frédéric, Edouard, and Nicolas Brunier
Vineyard area: 56ha
Viticultural approach: Organic, not certified
For the Vieux Télégraphe rouge:
Grape varieties: 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah; remaining 5% comprised of Cinsault, Clairette and other local varieties
Average wine age: 60 years old
Average production: 200,000 bottles
For the Vieux Télégraphe blanc:
Grape varieties: 40% Clairette, 25% Grenache blanc, 25% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc
Average vine age: 45 years old
Average production: 20,000 bottles
Timeline
1891 Henri Brunier I bequeathes a parcel of land on La Crau to his son, Hippolyte Brunier
1915 Jules Brunier, son of Hippolyte, names the estate Vieux Télégraphe
1928 Original winery built on La Crau
1945 Henri Brunier II, son of Jules, joins the estate
1979 Construction of modern, gravity-fed winery
1980 Frédéric Brunier, son of Henri Brunier II, joins the estate
1981 Daniel Brunier, son of Henri Brunier II, joins the estate
1986 Purchase of Domaine la Roquète vineyards
1998 Purchase of Domaine les Pallières, Gigondas; creation of Massaya, Beqaa Valley, Lebanon
2002 No Vieux Télégraphe red made due to floods; first vintage of ‘Télégramme’
2011 Construction of current winery
2011 First vintage of ‘Piedlong’
2015 Nicolas Brunier, son of Frédéric, joins the estate
2016 Edouard Brunier, son of Daniel, joins the estate
2018 Manon Brunier, daughter of Frédéric, joins the estate
La Crau, La Crau, La Crau
When I ask which three things all wine lovers need to know about Vieux Télégraphe, Daniel’s answer is immediate: ‘La Crau, La Crau, La Crau!’ This plateau of galets roulés to the east of the village is one of the highest in the appellation, and it has long been considered one of the best sectors for making wine in Châteauneuf. Their holdings are among the largest in the appellation.
To the naked eye, these endless fields of fist-sized, rounded, beige stones appear callously inhospitable. But it’s what’s underneath that counts – deep, water-retaining clays which nourish the vines during hot, dry summers. ‘The vines need to suffer a little,’ says Daniel, but hydric stress arrives relatively late here, which ensures steadier ripening, creating finer tannins.
Irrigation is allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but only to aid ripening during the growing season, and only when officially sanctioned. This was once only sporadic, but due to the increasingly parched summers, growers now get the go-ahead almost every year. Some producers believe irrigation is now crucial to making balanced wines. But Daniel Brunier is not a fan. ‘You could turn it on at night – who’s going to check?’ says Daniel. ‘I’m not saying it should be banned, just managed. And for now, it’s not.’
Either way, he wouldn’t use it for mature vineyards, as he believes it rubs out the expression of terroir. In this sense, avoiding irrigation is even more important that working organically for Daniel (they work organically but aren’t certified). Avoiding irrigation is so important to him, that he believes non-irrigated wines deserve to be authenticated in the same way organic viticulture is certified.
Wish such a vast vineyard area under their control, one cumbersome challenge they face is replanting. Vines die for many reasons, whether it’s young vines that don’t survive the summer, disease, vineyard accidents, or old age. Every year they need to replant the equivalent of 3.5ha of vines, and they favour time-consuming mass-selection where possible, as opposed to buying clones. ‘It’s a colossal job,’ says Daniel, and one that needs addressing every year.
‘No pumps, no pipes, no screws’
On the day I visited the winery, the small wooden vats had all been drained to blend the contents before further maturation. The little door at the base of each one was wide open, and the air was heavy with black cherry jam and sweet cedar. We stuck in our heads and took deep nosefuls of the narcotic fug.
‘Granche is fragile, it oxidises easily.’ says Daniel. The winery moves grapes and must by gravity and vibration, ‘so no pumps, no pipes, no screws’. The oldest vines on La Crau are 110 years old, and these bunches keep their stems during fermentation. Others parcels are destemmed, and they ferment with natural yeasts; 60% in stainless steel, 40% in vat. Wines are matured for two years before bottling, the first year in wooden vats of various ages, the second year in large foudres.
‘What we look for is the tannic structure,’ says Daniel, ‘the most elegant and the most adapted to the vintage. Aromatically speaking, what matters is that the aromas come from the terroir, not the vinification; that they are created outside, not inside.’
Most of the production is red, but they produce 10% white Châteauneuf, more than the average. They’ve been makling white wine since the beginning, and these grapes are also grown on La Crau. It’s a blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc that’s matured for a year in barrels of various sizes, with a minimal use of new oak.
They do not make a cuvée spéciale, neither do they intend to (their bottles state ‘La Crau’ on the label, but this is not a cuvée name as such.) They do however make some other Châteauneufs since purchasing another domaine.
‘Piedlong’ is a blend of old-vine Grenache from lieu-dit Pied Long with 10% Mourvèdre from lieu-dit Pignan.
‘Clos la Roquète’ is a fine and mineral white from lieu-dit la Roquète, a third each of Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Both can rival Vieux Télégraphe in quality, if not ageing potential.
‘Télégramme’ is a destemmed red cuvée from other parcels and young vines. You may have heard a whisper of the legendary ‘Cuvée Hippolyte’ – it does exist. It’s an experimental cuvée, different each year, made in reasonable quantity – but not sold commercially.
For the cellar
All these wines can be drunk straight away, but when it comes to Vieux Télégraphe, try to hold onto the reds for at least 10 years before drinking. This isn’t because it’s particularly robust or tannic when young; in fact, the opposite is true. It’s so silky and welcoming straight after bottling means that a lot gets drunk on release. At this stage, although delicious, it can lack complexity. Although he loves drinking it young, Daniel admits, ‘to know it, you have to age it.’ To ensure more drinkings get to experience Vieux Télégraphe at its peak, he is currently overseeing the construction of a new cellar specifically for bottle ageing.
It will be the next generation who benefits from this. The 1990s and 2000s were a period of prosperity for Châteauneuf, but Daniel and Frédéric didn’t take it for granted; they invested in the firm and have created an empire. His son Edouard is ready to grasp the baton. ‘Our main objective is to follow the family line,’ he says, ‘respecting the raw materials. The grapes of La Crau, without mask or make-up.’
JEB DUNNUCK – SOUTHERN RHÔNE: THE CHARMING, PROVENÇAL 2018s AND THE MOST CONCENTRATED, CLASSIC 2019s
Dégustation par Jeb Dunnuck au domaine le 6 Octobre 2020
The 2019s will be a step up over the 2018s and offer more depth, concentration, and richness, all while showing considerable purity of fruit and elegance. While the year will be known for its hot, dry summer, the region saw substantial precipitation late in 2018 as well as early in 2019. A normal spring (just under 100 millimeters of rainfall) saw a healthy fruit set and yields are up over 2018 and 2017. This early-season rainfall is essential when trying to understand the vintage.
[…]
Looking at the wines, these are inkier colored, concentrated, full-bodied wines that stays surprisingly focused and lively on the palate. Despite the hot growing season, the wines hold onto impressive aromatics, with clean, pure fruit aromas and little in the way of over-ripeness. Tannins across the board appear to be ripe, the wines have plenty of mid-palate depth, as well as length, and I found few signs of over the top wines. Quality throughout the Southern Rhône Valley also appears to be high.
I’ll review these wines in depth next year, but in short, 2019 appears to be a beautiful, possibly exceptional, vintage for the Southern Rhône and is superior to 2018.
[…]
Vieux Télégraphe – Châteaneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018
94. The flagship of the great estate is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape and it could quite possibly be one of the longest lived wines in the 2018 vintage, which in general, is a charming, forward vintage geared for consumption in the first decade of life. Revealing a more ruby, almost translucent color as well as a greal perfume of wild strawberries, blackberries, Asian spices, peppery garrigue, and flowers, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a building, undeniable sense of minerality, plenry of mid-palate depth, and enough tannins to warrant 2-3 years or bottle age. lt has the more upfront, expressive style of the vintage yet my money is on this evolving for 15-20 years.
Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2018
93-95+. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up mostly in foudre, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers a more crystalline style with its white peach, crushed citrus, white flower, and obvious minerality. Clean, pure, and chiseled on the palate, it has good concentration, and almost red wine-like structure, and a great finish. It’s going to age beautifully.
Télégramme – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018
90. The quality of the entry-level cuvée from this estate has soared over the past decade and the 2018 Chàteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is unquestionably an outstanding wine. Revealing a deep ruby/purple color as well as Provençal notes of spiced blue fruits, ground pepper, garrigue, and violets, it has medium to full-bodied richness, plenty of mid -palate depth (which can be lacking in a number of 2018s), notable balance, and just a delicious, Provençal, ready to go style. lt’s ideal for enjoying anytime over the coming 7-8 years.
Terrasses du Diable – Gigondas 2018
91-93+. Moving to the two 2019s from barrel, the 2019 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable showed beautifully, with lots of red and blue fruits intermixed with notes of candied violets, cracked black pepper, and violets. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has a touch more mid-palate density than the 2018, and enough tannins to warrant a year or three of bottle age.
Racines – Gigondas 2018
92+. Slightly deeper and richer, with a more backward style, the 2018 Gigondas Les Racines reveals a deeper ruby/plum color as well as terrific notes of ripe black cherries, roasted garrigue, scorched earth, and ground pepper. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and concentrated, with plenty of underlying structure, it’s a terrific 2018 that’s going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink brilliantly over the following decade or more.
Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2019
96-98. Looking at the flagship 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape from this benchmark estate, it reveals a denser ruby/purple color as well as stunning notes of smoke red and black fruits, crushed rocks, peppery garrigue, and truffly earth. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it stays tight and compact on the palate, with terrific mid-palate depth, a focused, structure mouthfeel and one great finish. This is a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape from the Brunier family that’s going to benefit from upwards of 5-7 years of bottle age and have 30+ years of overall longevity.
Piedlong – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019
93-95. Coming from the plateau in the center of the appellation and 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Piedlong boasts a more ruby-translucent color to go with feminine, perfumed notes of wild strawberries, loamy soil, herbes de Provence, and peppery garrigue. Playing in the medium to full-bodied end of the spectrum, it has terrific overall balance, some grainy, present tannins, and a great finish. This is another terrific 2019 in the making that’s going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 10-15 years.
Télégramme – Châteaneuf-du-Pape 2019
91-93+. Moving to the 2019s, these unquestionably have another level of concentration and depth over the 2018s. Starting with the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Télégramme, this deep purple-hued beauty boasts a great nose of both black and blue fruits, peppery herbs, and crushed stone to go with a medium to full-bodied, meaty, mouthfilling style on the palate. It’s one of the more structured vintages for this cuvée that I can recall, and it also might just be one of the best yet.
Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2019
95. One of my favorite whites from the south of France is Daniel Brunier’s Châteaneuf du Pape Blanc and his 2019 is another stunning effort. Always a blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up in foudre, this beauty boasts and exotic nose of honeyed peach, quince, crushed citrus, and salty minerality, all with a floral edge. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with flawless balance and beautifully integrate acidity, enjoy this concentrated white anytime over the coming 15-20 years.
Clos Roquete – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019
95. The Domaine La Roquète releases are made by the team at Vieux Télégraphe. Lots of white flowers, honeyed melon, white peach, and quince like aromas and flavors emerge from the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos La Roquete Blanc and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a great sense of salty minerality, solid mid- palate fleshy, and a dry, crisp finish. This smoking good white can be drunk over the coming 10-15 years.
Pigeoulet rouge – Vin de Pays 2019
88-90. Moving to the reds and starting with the 2019 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet, this perennial winner offers a deeper ruby/plum color as well as a great nose of jammy black and red berry fruits intermixed with lots of peppery herbs and earth. Fleshy, medium-bodied, and already delicious, enjoy this on release and over the following 3-5 years. It competes with any number of top Cotes du Rhône out there.
Pigeoulet blanc – Vin de Pays 2019
90. Starting with the 2019 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc, this beauty is based on Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Roussanne brought up in foudre. This light gold hued white offers a crisp bouquet of honeyed citrus, white flowers, and salty mineral-like notes. These all carry to a medium-bodied white that’s nicely balanced, has a spine of vibrant acidity, and a classy finish. It’s well worth checking out, and while I always think these are best drunk in their youth, I certainly wouldn’t be surprised to see this evolve over 7-8 years given the acidity and concentration.
Mégaphone – Ventoux 2019
90-92. A step up in class and elegance, the 2019 Ventoux Megaphone checks in as 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah that’s from a single vineyard in the Ventoux appellation. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a beautifully Provençal nose of spiced red and black fruits, peppery herbs, and flowery incense. With medium to full-bodied richness, a terrific sense of minerality, notable balance, and a lengthy finish, it’s another winner from this team that will impress for another 5-7 years.
Terrasses du Diable – Gigondas 2019
91-93+. Moving to the two 2019s from barrel, the 2019 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable showed beautifully, with lots of red and blue fruits intermixed with notes of candied violets, cracked black pepper, and violets. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has a touch more mid-palate density than the 2018, and enough tannins to warrant a year or three of bottle age.
Racines – Gigondas 2019
92-94+. More black currants, blueberries, peppery garrigue, licorice and mineral notes define the 2019 Gigondas Les Racines and it’s another beautifully rich, layered, textured barrel sample from this estate that’s going to benefit from short term cellaring.
KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER: 2017 LES PALLIÈRES
by Clark Z. Terry, January 2020
It’s always a pleasure to have Daniel Brunier, vigneron at Vieux Télégraphe and Les Pallières, in town to visit customers. He knows how to put on a show, and anyone who attended our Autumn Tasting in Oakland in November saw his talent to connect with the public.
Daniel’s arrival was well timed with the arrival of the two 2017 bottlings from Les Pallières. When speaking about his work, Daniel likes to build connections between the wines he makes across the Rhône Valley. He’s a man of Gigondas and Ventoux, not simply Châteauneuf, where Vieux Télégraphe is based, and the through line of his production is the Grenache grape. What’s striking in his wines is how each bottling expresses the greatness of an appellation and Grenache, yet is distint and full of character. The 2017 vintage of Racines and Terrasse du Diable epitomizes this. I highly recommend picking up six bottles of each to discover what makes 2017 Les Pallières outstanding now and in the future.
2017 Gigondas « Racines »
The domaine’s oldest vines and 80% Grenache in the blend are the fundamentals of Racines. Of the two Les Pallières bottlings, this is the one that typically is open younger in its life. The tannins are soft, and the fruit is pure and elegant. Underlying that, though, is something dark and profound – a savory character reminiscent of a tapenade. Don’t count it out as a candidate for your cellar.
2017 Gigondas « Terrasse du Diable »
The Grenache is turned up to 90% for this high-altitude cuvée. The vines (averaging only fifty years) are planted on terraces that nestle against the imposing limestone cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail. For those of you who just can’t wait, open the Terrasse du Diable a good two or three hours before serving. Notes of black olive and licorice, mint, eucalyptus, and rosemary will soon fill the room. For those who can, in five to ten years, the brooding youthfulness will start to mature and you’ll be rewarded with … well, we don’t yet know. But if past vintages are any indication, you’ll be very happy with your foresight to put a few bottles away.
VINOUS – THE RICHES AND RICHNESS OF CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE – JOSH RAYNOLDS
VINOUS.COM – DÉC 2019
Châteauneuf-du-Pape fans will find plenty to like from 2017, a vintage marked by consistently warm to hot weather that yielded distinctly rich, fleshy, fruit-driven wines. The growing season presented its share of challenges, and yet the best wines are compelling. Even so, readers need to be selective, as the style of the year is quite particular, and some wines are overdone.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017
94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
Télégramme rouge 2017
92-93. Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016
95. Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and suave, harmonious tannins. Drink 2024-2034.
Télégramme rouge 2016
93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins. Drink 2022-2031.
JAMES SUCKLING – RHONE IN THE ZONE WITH A STRING OF SOLID VINTAGES
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCTOBRE, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR
The Rhone Valley’s three most recent vintages are very distinctive and deliver quite clear influence over the wines they made. The most recent, 2017, is in a difficult position to be compared with the extrememly strong years of 2015 and 2016. However, after tasting a few hundred wines this summer in the Rhone Valley and visiting a few dozen producers, the 2017 has made some excellent wines.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017
96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like, raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018
94-95. The finished blend that is now aging another year in 60 hectoliter barrels, this has a very fleshy, round, rich and smooth-honed palate that has such completeness already. The raspberries and red plums are stunning here. The tannins are there and very open-knit and there’s a super sapid feel to the finish. The 15% mourvedre does much of the heavy lifting here. It shapes the finish and drags it deep. Around one-third from crushed grapes with stems. Drinkable on release, but best from 2024.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2017
96. A stonier, more mineral expression of white Châteauneuf with impressive body and concentration. Super fresh, white flowers, flint and delicate pears here. The palate has a strong, mineral edge, smooth phenolics, fleshy stone fruit and a neat, fine, chalky finish. Clairette, grenache blanc, roussanne and bourboulenc. Drink in 2020.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2018
96. Traditionally dominated by clairette (45%) and grenache blanc (30%), then roussanne and bourboulenc. The vines average 50+ years and there’s a very restrained nose with dialed-back white-pear and chalk aromas with dried flowers, too. The palate has a super fresh, zippy feel and a long, juicy and attractive core of fresh, salty minerals. The balance is innate and very fluid. Drink or hold.
Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2016
98. The trademark, old-vine-grenache offering of earthy notes with wild berries, herbs, flowers and spices. Wild. Hints of blood oranges and pink-grapefruit peel. Superb, expansive palate shape, all finesse and length. Super-fine, focused and elegant. Refined, regal and majestic. Peppery, bright, wild, red fruit, blood oranges and orange bitters. Decades ahead of this. Drink or hold.
Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017
93. A blend of 90% grenache for the Piedlong section and 10% mourvedre from the Pignan section, both old-vine parcels. The wild herbs and dried, wild red flowers and roses here are really something, together with grilled meat. Rich and succulent, very fleshy and intense. Drink or hold.
Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017
93. Ripe and brambly raspberry, blueberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herbs. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great grenache in 2017. Drink or hold.
Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018
92-93. This has a lot of red fruit, a lot of personality and a lot of brambly aromas with spicy nuances, too. The palate has a very smooth build and a deep, plum and red-fruit core, framed in long, noble and rich, ripe tannins. The immediate fleshy appeal is high. Wait for the rest. Try from 2022.
Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2017
95. Aromas of cassis, garrigue and redcurrants and wild raspberries. Grenache drives the palate in a long, linear and very focused style. Dense, but delicate, with a fresh and juicy, raspberry-pastry finish. The vines are 80+ years old. Striking power and focus. Drink or hold.
Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2018
91-92. From very old vines (70-100 years old). There is a strong, red-fruit focus here with a sappy and very plush feel to the palate. Succulent, fleshy and mellow and a very suave, open-knit and ripe-grenache finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% cinsault and syrah co-planted. Drink over the first decade.
Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017
94. Lots of violets and blue fruit with cinnamon and dark stony aromas. Baking spices, too. On the palate, there’s black fruit and an attractive, bitter-herb kick, with very dense tannins and a powerful, compressed feel. Lithe, juicy blue-fruit finish. Very focused, dense and long. Drink or hold.
Les Pallières Gigondans Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018
92-93. The fruit for this is sourced from elevated terrasses (above 300m) and the depth and righ, dark cherries and plums are stunning. Rich red plums, mulberries, chocolate and plenty of tannin here. Sapid, chalky finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% mourvedre. 70% de-stemmed and 30% crushed with stems. Drink or hold.
Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018
93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.
Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017
93. Super plush, and opulent, offering notes of sweet red plums, raspberry compote and darker blackberries. The palate is bathed in mixed-berry flavor, as well as dark cherries and dark minerals. Starts really supple, then turns fine and tightens through the finish. Noble tannins and darker fruit. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah. A great vintage for this wine! Drink over the next five years.
Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018
91-92. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah, this has a very rich and attractively ripe feel in 2018. Succulent, dense and very plush tannins carry an assertive, fresh and fleshy feel. There’s a salty mineral note, too. Drink on release.
Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2017
92. Pre-bottling from foudre. This has a ripe but fresh feel to it with very attractive berry-compote and spice. There’s a wealth of brambly, red grenache fruit, plenty of spice and a very plush, soft and supple palate with wild raspberries. Drink now.
Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018
90-91. Ripe red cherries and raspberries with a fine palate that has a very sleek, plush and attractive feel. The palate is sappy and plush. 80% grenache, 10-15% carignan and the balance is syrah. Drink now.
JAMES SUCKLING – DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES 2018
Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018
93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018
92-93. The fruit for this is sourced from elevated terrasses (above 300m) and the depth and righ, dark cherries and plums are stunning. Rich red plums, mulberries, chocolate and plenty of tannin here. Sapid, chalky finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% mourvedre. 70% de-stemmed and 30% crushed with stems. Drink or hold.
Les Racines rouge 2018
91-92. From very old vines (70-100 years old). There is a strong, red-fruit focus here with a sappy and very plush feel to the palate. Succulent, fleshy and mellow and a very suave, open-knit and ripe-grenache finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% cinsault and syrah co-planted. Drink over the first decade.
DE VIGNE EN CAVE: LES DESSOUS DU TERROIR DE GIGONDAS : LA MONTAGNE MAGQIUE
LA REVUE DE VIN DE FRANCE – OCT 2019 – SOPHIE DE SALETTES
«PARCELLES ASSEMBLÉES OU ISOLÉES»
Daniel Brunier (Domaine Les Pallières à Gigondas, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe à Châteauneuf-du-Pape) a attendu de faire connaissances avec les vignes et les vins des Pallières avant de décider que les parcelles ne seraient plus assemblées dans une seule cuvée. «Nos 25 hectares de vignes s’étagent de 200 à 400 mètres d’altitude. Nous avons constaté dès les premières années que les vins du bas et du haut ne s’assemblaient pas harmonieusement. C’est pourquoi nous avons préféfé les séparer à partir du millésime 2007.»
La cuvée Les Racines provient ainsi de vignes centenaires plantées sur les parcelles situées autour du chai, à 250 mètres d’altitude. Ce terroir aux sols argileux, avec des éboulis calcaires, est exposé au nord-ouest : le soleil y arrive donc plus tardivement. Les plus jeunes vignes (une cinquantaine d’années tout de même !) issues des Terrasses du Diables, davantage en altitude, donnent le vin éponym. «Plus on monte, plus la charge en cailloux augments et plus les vins sont tendus. Mais les raisins des parcelles hautes du domaine sont mûrs avant ceux des parcelles basses car ils profitent d’un ensoleillement prolongé.»
JEB DUNNUCK – SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 FROM GIGONDAS…
« To quickly summarize the two vintages reviewed here, 2017 is a terrific vintage throughout the Southern Rhône. The wines offer rich, powerful, incredibly Provençal styles that resemble more elegant examples of the 2009s or even fresher, more docused examples of the 2007s…
A step back, 2018 is nevertheless a good vintage that suffered due to an incredibly rainy winter and spring followed by a massive mildew outbreak in the spring and early summer. This was less of an issue for higher elevation, hillside regions such as Gigondas and Rasteau that see better airflow and cooler temperature. It’s also worth pointing out that the vintage improves as you move away from the Rhône River towards Mount Ventoux. Nevertheless, yields were down throughout the Souther Rhône in 2018 due to mildew…
What You Need To Know
Both 2017 and 2018 are solid vintages for the Rhône Valley, with 2017 offering exciting, Provençal, sexy wines that have plenty of density and structure, and 2018 offering more forward, soft, elegant wines that are going to be ideal for near term drinking. »
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017
92-94+. Also not yet bottled, the 2017 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable is rocking stuff and has a mouthwatering sense of salinity and mineratliy as well as the classic kirsch, garrigue, and peppery aromas this cuvée always possesses. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, and nicely concentrated, with ripe tannins, it’s going to keep for 15 years of more.
Les Racines rouge 2017
92-94. More blackcurrants, black cherries, earth, and leafy, peppery herb aromas emerge from the 2017 Gigondas Les Racines, which is more closed and backward yet has plenty of depth and concentration. It needs 4-5 years of bottle age.
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018
91-93. Mostly Grenache from terraced, higher elevation sites in the Gigondas, the 2018 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable offers a beautiful perfume of kirsch and ripe red fruits as well as loads of spice, graphite, and peppery herbs. With plenty of sweet fruit, solid mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, and beautiful finish, it has plenty of upfront appeal and will keep for over a decade.
Les Racines rouge 2018
90-92+. The 2018 Gigondas Les Racines comes from older vines and slightly deeper, more north-facing parcels around the estate. It offers darker notes of blackcurrants earth, ground pepper, truffle, and leafy herbs as well as a more concentrated, tannic style on the palate.
SOMMELIERS INTERNATIONAL – AUTOMNE 2019 – CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2016
#165 – AUTOMNE 2019
Exploité par la famille Brunier depuis six générations (1891), le Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, installé à Bédarrides, possède des vignes d’une soixantaine d’années, sur une superficie de 70 hectares. Situé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape, sur le célèbre plateau de Crau, le vignoble offre des cuvées d’une grande minéralité grâce son terroir de galets roulés si spécifique.
Aujourd’hui, Frédéric et Daniel gèrent ensemble le domaine, accompagnés de leurs fils respectifs: Nicolas et Édouard. Les deux frères défendent la culture raisonnée bio et durable pour permettre au raisin d’exprimer tout son potentiel. Cette attention vis-à-vis de la vigne s’étend d’ailleurs à la vinification et l’élevage par une observation méticuleuse du raisin de manière à créer des vins équilibrés, avec une forte personnalité.
Chaque cuvée du domaine propose une vision différente de son terroir. Le Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, en Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Les Pallières, en Gigondas, la cuvée Mégaphone, en Ventoux ou encore le Pigeoulet, en Vaucluse. Fier de cette diversité, le domaine détient également des vignes dans le Vallée de la Béqaa (Domaine Massaya), au Liban où, comme en France, les vins créés sont des vins «dont la qualité finale n’a de valeur que par la noblesse des moyens mis en œuvre pour l’obtenir».
KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER: LE VIN EN ROSE – SEPT. 2019
« Le Vin En Rose » par Jane Berg, Septembre 2019
2018 Vin de France Rosé
« Au Petit Bonheur » – Les Pallières
If you’re feeling résistant to any policy makers these days, stock up on the sandy blond Au Petit Bonheur from Les Pallières. The INAO, the certifying body for France’s winemaking regions, believe that Gigondas’s eponymous rosé, despite being made naturally from organic grapes, may not identify as such if it does not look pink enough. Vexed by this rule, Kermit and the Bruniers decided to part ways with the Gigondas AOP and make their rosé as Mother Nature intended, in a vin gris style. Equal parts Clairette, Grenache, and Cinsault, this bottling is salty, discreet, and full of brambly fruit and soft citrus notes. Vive le freedom of le Vin de France.
THE WINE ADVOCATE – DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES 2017 & 2018 – JOE CZERWINSKI
Les Racines rouge 2017
93-95. Despite being riper and more concetrated than the Terrasse du Diable bottling, the 2017 Gigondas Les Racines shares a similarly edgy structure. Potent raspberry fruit is delivered on a full-bodied, richly textured palate that finishes crisp and a bit jagged. Give it a couple of years in the cellar, and it should be fine for drinking over the next 10 years.
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017
91-93. From a cool sute at 300-400 meters above sea level, the 2017 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre. It boasts knockout aromas of ciolets, garrigue and purple raspberries, with an undercurrent of black cherries. It’s full-bodied and concentrated, with bright, crunchy acids. The overall impression is of a wine with sharper edges that the harmonious 2016 or 2018. Cellar it a couple of years and then enjoy it over the following decade.
Les Racines rouge 2018
95-97. The precise blend for this cuvée hadn’t been finalized at the time of my visit, so the sample I tasted of 2018 Gigondas Les Racines was an approximation put together by the team at the estate. Marked by accents of blodd orange and citrus zest, the raspberry fruit at the core of this wine is concentrated and ripe. Full-bodied and rich, yet silky, fine and elegant, it’s a classic representation of this microclimate and its 75-year-old Grenache vines.
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018
93-95. The 2018 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable comes from yields that ended up being approximately hald of the average for the estate (only 11 hectoliters per hectare). It’s full-bodied, with a rich yet silky texture, ripe flavors of cherries and raspberries and a long finish that hints at clove and licorice. The exact blend for the domaine’s wines was yet to be finalized when I tasted this sample, but historically, this cuvée is about 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre.
JEB DUNNUCK – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2018
Télégramme rouge 2018
90-92. Including slightly less Grenache than normal, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is the entry level wine of the estate, yet it always delivers plenty of character. Violets, ripe cherries, blue fruit hints, and ground pepper all give way to a medium to full-bodied, fruit-forward, fleshy, nicely textured 2018 that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate.
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2018
93-95+. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up mostly in foudre, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers a more crystalline style with its white peach, crushed citrus, white flower, and obvious minerality. Clean, pure, and chiseled on the palate, it has good concentration, and almost red wine-like structure, and a great finish. It’s going to age beautifully.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2018
93-95. The grand vin is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape. It’s an elegant version of this cuvée, offering beautiful blueberry, raspberry, crushed violet, graphite, and crush rock-like minerality. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and balanced, it’s polished and seamless, yet has plenty of tannins as well as richness, and is going to evolve beautifully.
JEB DUNNUCK – MÉGAPHONE ET PIGEOULET 2018
Pigeoulet rouge 2018
88-90. A blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah (there are small amounts of other red varieties), the 2018 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet offers a complex style in its kirsch, herbes de Provence, white pepper, and floral aromas and flavors. This beauty is sweetly fruited, with polished tannins, loads of charm, and a great finish.
Mégaphone rouge 2018
89-91. A blend of 66% Grenache and 33% Syrah all from a single vineyard in the Ventoux, the 2018 Ventoux Megaphone is a richer, more serious wine that offers rich black cherry and blackberry fruits as well as plenty of ground pepper and garrigue aromas and flavors. It’s rounded and has good concentration, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. It’s going to keep for 7-8 years.
JAMES SUCKLING – MÉGAPHONE ET PIGEOULET 17 & 18
Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018
90-91. Ripe red cherries and raspberries with a fine palate that has a very sleek, plush and attractive feel. The palate is sappy and plush. 80% grenache, 10-15% carignan and the balance is syrah. Drink now.
Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017
93. Super plush, and opulent, offering notes of sweet red plums, raspberry compote and darker blackberries. The palate is bathed in mixed-berry flavor, as well as dark cherries and dark minerals. Starts really supple, then turns fine and tightens through the finish. Noble tannins and darker fruit. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah. A great vintage for this wine! Drink over the next five years.
Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018
91-92. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah, this has a very rich and attractively ripe feel in 2018. Succulent, dense and very plush tannins carry an assertive, fresh and fleshy feel. There’s a salty mineral note, too. Drink on release.
LES MAGNUMS D‘EN MAGNUM – L‘INCONNU DE LA RUBRIQUE : PIEDLONG ROUGE 2016
[Pourquoi lui]
Je suis tombé dessus un jour par hasard avec l’impression de changer de dimension. À l’aveugle, je ne l’aurais jamais placé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Ce vin est issu d’un assemblage de deux parcelles, les grenaches de Piedlong et les mourvèdres de Pignan, pour 10 %. Du coup, la famille Brunier m’est apparue comme une bande de grands couturiers. Qu’elle est. J’en ai acheté plein.
[On l’aime parce que]
Une telle finesse vaut bien une messe, comme disait à peu près Sully. Est-ce l’âge élevé des vignes (70 ans), sont-ce les galets roulés, le vinificateur est-il un sorcier ?
[Combien et combien]
73 euros / 850 magnums
[Avec qui, avec quoi]
Rassemblez les plus capés de vos amis, baissez la lumière, passez à table. Vous allez enfin montrer à vos convives que vous êtes un maître du vin.
[il ressemble à quoi]
À un bourgogne tout en ciselure, en dentelle. Bref, il y a de l’enthousiasme dans la bouteille, vous allez adorer.
[La bonne heure du bonheur]
Déjà bon, il sera bon tout le temps. Je suis en quête d’un ou deux vieux millésimes, pour confirmer l’impression.
[Le hashtag]
#C9DPfirst
VINUM: MAGAZIN FÜR WEINKULTUR – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ROUGES 2016
Piedlong rouge 2016
Classique, arômes de fruits et d’épices d’un début de maturité, fruits cuits, thé. En bouche montre une minéralité et une élégance malgré l’opulence, les tannins restent frais. L’ensemble est harmonieux. Un vin qui ne joue pas de ses muscles, qui donne déjà plaisir à boire mais qui peux encore vieillir.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016
Déjà un bouquet mur avec un fruité épicé et intense. Bonne opulence, densité, fraicheur et longueur. Mais aussi de l’élégance que l’on s’attend à avoir de la part d’un Châteauneuf du Pape classique, à quoi s’ajoute un épice particulier : un Must.
WHITE CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
Outside Burgundy and other sacred sites of Pinot production, there aren’t many great terroirs that produce white and red wines of equal standing. There’s Pessac-Léognan, Rioja, Hermitage … and what about Châteauneuf-du-Pape […]
Clos Roquète white 2017 – 94 – A subtle, lifted fennel nose. Perilously full and broad on the palate, but then finishes fresh and taut thanks to brisk acdidity and a coiled energy. An intense wine with a glinting mineral line.
KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER – FEB. 2019 – PALLIERES 2016
Wines from the 2016 vintage in southern France generated plenty of excitement from growers and critics alike, so I canred correspondingly high expectations upon arriving at domaine Les Pallières in the summer of the 2017 for our annual blending session. Before a mesmerizing backdrop of stubby old grenache vins, dense pine forest, and dramatic limestone outcrops, the Bruniers – brothers Daniel and Frédéric, along with sons Edouard and Nicolas – recounted the vintage over a raucous chorus of cicadas.
In Many ways, they explained, 2016 represented the same challenges – hot, dry summer weather – that have become the norm as of late. The drought especially took its toll at Les Pallières, where the extremely old vines already eke out a bare minimum of juice each year. The vintage‘s strong point, then, is certainly not its yields. Rather, cool nights throughout the growing season ensured superb balance, color, and aromatic complexity in the resulting wines. The high elevation, north-facing terroir at Pallières accentuated this effect, giving wines defined more by a salivating freshness than by exaggerated ripeness or heat. By the time we had perfected the final blends, we all bore purple-toothed smiles and were ready to raise a cool glass of Gigondas rosé to a successful millésime 2016.
In bottle, the two cuvées of rouge confirm my initial impression – one of purity, completeness, and, most of all, great balance. Both feature the succulent perfume we love in Gigondas : black cherries picked ripe off the tree, fragrant herbes de Provence oils liberated by the pulsating summer sun, earthy licorice root …
Each terroir leaves its stamp on the palate. Supple and elegant, Racines conveys the generosity and velvety depth of ancient vines deeply rooted in clay-dominant soils. Terrasse du Diable, in contrast, relays its rocky environment with shameless audacity. Perched above the rest of the domaine on crunchy limestone rubble, it brings a chewy touch of rusticity and a saline finale.
You may find you have a taste for one cuvée over the other, or perhaps, like me, your preference will oscillate between the two with every sip. One thing is certain : each bottle I uncork leaves me more convinced that 2016 ranks among the top vintages ever produced at Pallières.
GIGONDAS : A STAR RISES. DOMAINE LES PALLIERES : ONE OF THE PRODUCERS TO KNOW
This estate is jointly owned by the Brunier family of domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and their longtime US importer Kermit Lynch.The Bruniers and Lynch bought the property in 1998 and have steadily brought it back to life.
Located on thie northwest side of the appellation, the estate is a parchwork of terraces that can be roughly divided into two halves.The first contains that estat’s oldest vines of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, located around the winery itself at elevations of 650 to 600 feet, and the second includes terraces of Grenache and Mourvèdre at higher elevations of 1,000 feet, weaving in and around the Dentelles. After an initial run of vintages, vigneron Daniel Brunier decided to bottle the fruit from the two halves of the estate separately. Both bottlings show the more elegant side of Gigondas, relyning on subtle fruit flavors, fine tanins and lingering minerality.
JAMES SUCKLING TOP 100 – Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016
Vieux Télégraphe ambassadeur de la Vallée du Rhône dans le dernier top100 de James Suckling en 72ème place.
VINOUS – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANCS 16 ET 17
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016
94. Limpid yellow. Penetrating citrus and orchard fruit aromas are joined by suggestions of chalky minerals, fennel and jasmine. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering mineral-driven pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb definition and drive. The mineral and pear notes repeat emphatically on the nervy finish, which hangs on with impressive focus and persistence.
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017
(94-95). Bright straw-yellow. Powerful aromas of fresh pear and white peach are complicated by suggestions of orange zest, iodine and succulent lowers. Sappy and impressively delineated on the palate, offering intense pear skin, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle flavors that deepen and pread out steadily on the back half. Hints of marzipan and candied ginger emerge on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish that echoes the floral and citrus fruit notes
DRINKRHONE – GIGONDAS 2017 REPORT
Terrasse du Diable red 2017
***(*) (large 60 hl barrel, bottling summer 2019) clear, shiny red colour. The nose is floral, resembles Pez sweets, is tender, with good crystalline virtues, a peppery backdrop; it holds up safely. The palate links to the nose via its rose fragrance, develops a toffee-caramel aspect from the oak,shows that late on. This is a one-off young foudre/large barrel, which skews it somewhat. This extols purity, doesn’t have many hidden corners. “It has refined, was a bit hard before, the tannins demanding, from a dry vintage,” Daniel Brunier. 14.8°. From 2021. 2038-40
Les Racines red 2017
**** (large barrel, bottling June 2019) steady red robe; the nose is aromatic, nicely wide and quietly persistent, floral, gracious, comes with snippets of licorice, sparks of menthol, smokiness. The palate has a broad debut, good heart, fills the palate with some silk in the texture, develops pebbly tannins, with a chewy aspect on them. It is more complete, profound than the Terrasses 2017, the length assured. It can make progress quietly, gradually. The tannins remind me a bit of 2013, though it’s more elegant than 2013. Good local ID here; take your time with it. 14.8°. From 2022. 2040-43
WINE ADVOCATE – n°238 – AUG. 31 – 2018
Early on a Saturday morning, the gracious and reflective Daniel Brunier received me at his family’s historic estate to taste through a cross section of the wines that Famille Brunier is now producing. In addition to the wines of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe (VT), the group includes wines from Le Pigeoulet, Mégaphone in Ventoux, Domaine Les Pallières in Gigondas and Clos La Roquète in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Brunier took the time during my brief visit to carefully explain why he doesn’t like to call the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Télégramme a « second wine. » This wine now includes much of the red plantings from Clos La Roquète, so maybe he has a point. But it also includes the young-vine material from VT plots, and it’s clearly not of the caliber of the main VT bottling, so draw your own conclusions. The family philosophy is to avoid selected yeasts and bacteria for malolactic fermentation, allowing the naturally occurring bugs to do their work. Proportions of stems/whole clusters varies considerably, depending on the wine, as does the élevage, although most of the wines mature in foudres. While the greatness of 2016 goes unquestioned here, Brunier called 2017, « At minimum, a very, very good vintage. We were surprised it’s so fresh and balanced. » Yields were down by about 50% from the previous year. The emphasis here is on elegance and complexity. « Grenache is fantastic when it’s not fruity. It’s easy to do extraction and big wines. It takes humbleness to do less, a confidence in the land, » Brunier said. More controversially, he concluded, « Extraction has been invented to replace terroir. »
Clos La Roquète blanc 2017 (92-94)
Les Racines rouge 2017 (93-95)
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017 (91-94)
Terrasse du Diable rouge 2016 (92-94)
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017 (93-95)
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016 94
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017 (93-95)
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016 96
Piedlong rouge 2017 (93-95)
Piedlong rouge 2016 (94-96)
Télégramme rouge 2017 (90-92)
Télégramme rouge 2016 91
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – A Perfect Voyage in the Rhone
[…] Daniel Brunier of Vieux Telegraphe also couched 2016 in similarly glowing terms: “If I had to summarize, I would say 2015 is a very good vintage and 2016 is magic. Honestly, the 2016 vintage is really magic; it is very rare.””
[…] The quality of the entire range of Brunier Family wines was once again exceptional, led by the flagship Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2016, which I rated 98 points. I also was impressed by the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2016, a standout vintage for this wine. It has exceptional precision and power, driven by sublime grenache character.”
[…] The white Chateauneuf highlights are refreshingly plentiful with Charbonnière and La Nerthe both delivering exceptional 2017s; also look to the Beaucastel Chateauneuf Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2017 and the Clos La Roquète 2017. The top white score goes to the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2017 with 96 points, as it shows exceptional concentration, weight and marvelous freshness in a vintage that could easily have been toppled by the dry conditions.
The 2016s (and plenty of 2017s) from the Southern Rhône – Part 1
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the old-guard estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Brunier brothers continue to make a very classic, age-worthy, and uncompromising style of wine that requires bottle age. The estate is in the eastern portion of the appellation and has a whopping 150 acres of prime terroir, almost all located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, which is one of the warmer, earlier terroirs in the region. In addition to their reds, they also make a brilliant white. I’ve also included the La Roquete releases here, which are also made by this team.
SCHWEIZERISCHE WEINZEITUNG: BASEL WINE TASTING – JUILLET/AOUT 2018
En 1976, une dégustation à Paris a ouvert la voie à un vin américain de haute qualité. 42 ans plus tard, la compétition suédoise s’est répétée à Bâle. C’était aussi excitant que le football.**
Assemblage de Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette et autres variétés.Fruits clairs mais fins, baies noires, épices douces, cerises douces, poivre, légèrement floral, terreux. Ferme en bouche, avec une acidité vive, un style ferme, des épices poivrées, des notes de mûres et d’épices en finale, minérale et longue.**
** Texte originale de Wolfgang Fassbender
THE PARTS PROVE BETTER THAN THEIR SUM
In the late 1990s, Daniel Brunier was expanding his family’s holdings. Along with his brother Frédéric, Daniel had Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, the family’s flagship property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, humming along. Vineyards in the Ventoux had been acquired for additional bottlings and he had set up his Massaya venture in Lebanon.
« We were looking to expand a bit more, maybe [50, 75, 100 acres] of Côtes du Rhône vines somewhere, » he says. « To be honest, at that time, even though Gigondas was not a big name, it was a little too expensive for us. »
But one day Brunier got a call to come visit Domaine Les Pallières, a Gigondas estate with 60 acres of vines, and a big problem: It wasn’t selling any wine. In the cellar, still in foudres and vats, were five vintages’ worth of wine, from 1993 through 1997. The 1998 harvest was hanging on the vine, and there was literally nowhere to put it.
|…]
The estate can be divided into two portions, upper and lower. The upper terraces are over 1,000 feet in elevation, average about 45 years of age and are planted primarily to Grenache with some Mourvèdre. The parcels around the winery itself range from 650 to 800 feet, and the Grenache, along with a mix of Cinsault and Syrah, are markedly older, at 70 years and up. Brunier vinified these two portions separately, then eventually blended them to make a single estate cuvée. But he kept finding the tannins a bit tight, even « rude, » as he puts it.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Cellar (Andrew Jefford)
[…] Does fine red Châteauneuf need age ? Can it improve with age ?
In search of answers, I decided to taste the ‘tradition’ cuvée of four leading Châteauneuf estates in three outstanding vintages, each a decade apart (2010, 2000 and 1990). […] Beaucastel, La Nerthe, Pégau and Vieux Télégraphe. […]
Vieux Télégraphe 2010 – 96 : The lightest in colour of the 2010 quartet, and a wine of outstanding aromatic complexity (bramble, strawberry, thyme, orange blossom, lavender and honey emerge with time in the glass). On the palate, it is the stoniest wine of the fou, with the finest quality tannins : gathered, shapely, savoury, textured and long. A Châteauneuf which succeeds in being both commanding and refined, and a great Vieux Télégraphe.
Vieux Télégraphe 2000 – 95 : Slightly deeper in hue than La Nerthe, but the same depth of colour as Pégau. This wine has, remarkably enough, retained wild flower and lavender notes with a falling honeyed sweetness too. On the palate,, it has better volume and force than La Nerthe, with lower acidity and richer tannins. This is a very complete wine at present, with notes of thyme and meaty umamy framing the refined, stony fruits.
Vieux Télégraphe 1990 – 96 : A deep, clear brick-garnet in colour. Harmonious, serene aromas suggesting thyme, lavender, pine, tangerine and grilled meats, all smudged together into an enticing pastel wash. Still, too, a wealthy wine on the palate, the ample, plump, structuring tannins and ripe, stately, expressive flavours. No fruit left no, but lots of mushroom, cigar leaf, meat juices – and that lingering stony warmth which is a hallmark of Vieux Télégraphe.
WINE GRENACHE – THE GREAT SEDUCERS (Tim White – Australian Financial Review – www.afr.com)
“Slinky” as a descriptor is one I use rarely, especially to describe the smell of a wine, although I’ve used it to describe an aspect of the taste of wine 20 times,
according to my FileMaker Pro tasting note database of many tens of thousands of wines. “Slinky” plus “sexy” I employ even less frequently: I’ve used the combo just twice. It’s quite obviously a highly subjective descriptor and to many might not convey much. But Daniel Brunier of Vignobles Brunier knew exactly what I meant when I deployed “slinky-sexy” to describe one of the reds in his family’s formidable portfolio (the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de La Vieux Télégraphe, being internationally acknowledged as one the finest estates of the appellation).
“Oh, if it’s slinky-sexy, you must be be talking about the Télégramme,” he said as he sat down for a chat after I’d concluded tasting a random line-up of eight wines.I looked again at my tasting notes and cross-referenced them with the list of order of wines I’d been given and
voilà: Télégramme. The 2013 Télégramme is a blend dominated by grenache, a grape for which I have considerable affection (the first wine that really got me hooked was a grenache-based red).
When I tell Brunier this, he informs me that he was rather disappointed with the prevailing feeling about the grape variety when he first visited Australia several years ago. “It was strange that grenache is not well considered. I was a bit disturbed by that.” A situation which is all the more remarkable when you consider that Australia has one of the greatest resources of old vine Grenache anywhere in the world. The Télégramme, he tells me, is one of just two of his wines which does not contain any stems (i.e. the grape berries have been removed from the bunches). The majority of Vignobles Brunier’s reds, including the aforementioned Domaine de La Vieux Télégraphe have a good portion of whole-bunches in them.
He says of stems and Télégramme that, “We don’t keep stems in this wine, because if you keep the stems in wine, it has to be discreet. Stems is not [a] simple thing.” Now whole-bunch fermentation is a topic du jour in Australia; I guess it has been for best part of five or six years now (in a more mainstream way). So I ask him how long the domain has been employing whole bunches in ferments? “One hundred and ten years,” he replies matter-of-factly. I double-check just to clarify, and seeing the look of incredulity on my face, he laughs, “Or 112 or 116 … During a long, long period everything was not destemmed, but from [the] ‘90s we did mourvèdre, cinsault and young vines of grenache.” “Young vines” in the Brunier viticultural lexicon transpires to mean 30-35 years old! He continues, “We changed because we thought there was this vegetal thing
Les Pallières La Racines 2013 – 95(96)/100 – $94
Powerful smelling with prune, demi-glace, charred beef ribs and some lavender-like aromatics. Concentrated, but still fresh smelling. As it is in the mouth with pomegranate-rose hip edginess and incredible fruit length and depth. Tight and chewy, and ideally needs another five years to show its best. Cave at: natural cork.
NY TIMES WINE SCHOOL : GIGONDAS
It is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, known as garnacha in Spain and cannonau in Sardinia, but Americans know it best by its French name, grenache. It is the most important constituent in the blend of grapes in Gigondas, the next focus of Wine School.
The southern Rhône is known for its warm, generous, heady wines. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most famous among them. Its wine can achieve a majesty that other southern Rhône appellations can only envy, but Châteauneufs nowadays can also seem overly powerful and fruity depending on the style of the producer. They are also expensive.
Gigondas, by contrast, tend to be a little fresher and gentler in potency and price than Châteauneuf, while retaining many of the characteristics that come from the Mediterranean climate and the bright Provençal sun. Gigondas won’t be low in alcohol — that’s just the nature of grenache. But it goes very well with sweaters and the onset of chilly weather.
Here are the three wines I suggest you try:
Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2012 (A Daniel Johnnes Selection/Skurnik Wines, New York) $30
Domaine du Gour de Chaulé Gigondas Cuvée Tradition 2012 (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York) $30
Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable 2011 (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.) $40
As is so often the case, these may be hard to find, so don’t hesitate to look for other producers, like Grapillon d’Or, Montirius, Montmirail, Château du Trignon, Château de St.-Cosme, Raspail-Ay, La Bouïssière and Notre Dame des Pallières. These are among the best, but buy whatever you can find. You could even try Vacqueyras, a neighboring appellation, or some of the better Côte-du-Rhônes-Villages from places like Cairanne or St.-Gervais.
These wines are best served with hearty foods. They will go great with casseroles and meaty stews, braised dishes and lamb shanks, as well as burgers and sausages. They will flatter roast chicken. (Doesn’t every wine?) You may also want to experiment with some savory-and-sweet combinations, like a tagine made with meat and fruit.
As always, it’s better to serve these wines with a light chill, say 60 to 65 degrees rather than 75 degrees. Decanting is never necessary. But one thing I’ve learned from Wine School is that decanting does seem to improve just about every young red. So, while it’s not essential, as my people like to say, it couldn’t hurt.
By Eric Asimov
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2013
Really strong for the vintage, there is wealth of black raspberries, herbs and kirsch, paired with silky smooth textures and a fresh, sweet, peppery, kirsch finish. Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault
Jeff Leve
PALLIERES TERRASSE DU DIABLE ROUGE 2012
Beaucoup de bois, épices douces, tanins serrés, savoureux, résine, ferme, beaucoup de potentiel, riche, note amère, persistant. 16,5.
Olivier Bompas
DOMAINE LES PALLIERES
Domaine Les Pallières a été sélectionné dans la catégorie « Progressions de l’Année» de ce guide
PALLIERES AU PETIT BONHEUR 2014
15/20. Avec deux hectares de Gigondas, un assemblage en trois tiers (grenache, cinasult, clairette), fermenté à partir de levures indigènes, c’est un rosé à l’expression d’épices douces avec une final safranée.
PIEDLONG ROUGE 2014
Cité parmi les incontournables de la Vallée du Rhône Sud
Grande subtilité de parfums dans une bouche élancée, avec un grain soyeux. En blanc, le Clos la Roquète est également une belle réussite. 16.5-17.5
Robert Petronio
2012 TELEGRAMME
Deep red. Vibrant red berry, lavender and mineralaromas, with a subtle garrigue quality building in the glass. Bright, racy and pure, offering freshraspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Sweeter and fuller on the finish,which features soft tannins and a late kick of white pepper. Distinctly elegant Chateauneuf with noexcess weight; in fact, there\’s something pinot-like going on here. 91-93
2012 & 2011 VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE
2012 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge
Bright ruby. Intense raspberry and cherry aromas arecomplicated by hints of lavender, spicecake and blood orange. Juicy and fruit-driven, with palatecoatingflavors of sweet, spice-tinged red fruits and candied flowers. Quite suave and seamless,boasting striking purity to its red fruit- and mineral-driven finish. Those who decry the ripeness andheady character of most Chateauneufs owe it to themselves to try this wine. 92-94
2011 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge
Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumednose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. Thespicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In agraceful, almost weightless style, with zero excess fat but noteworthy flavor intensity. Iunderestimated this wine last year. 93
PALLIERES LES RACINES ROUGE 2011 & 2012
2011 Les Racines
Brilliant ruby. Lively red fruit and floral scents are complicatedby suggestions of smoky minerals and potpourri. Spicy, penetrating and pure, offering gently sweetraspberry and lavender pastille flavors and a subtle touch of blood orange. Closes smooth and long,with a whisper of tannins and strong mineral cut. This wine is a poster child for the blend of powerand elegance that marks a great Gigondas. 92
2011 Terrasse Du Diable
Vivid ruby. Heady scents of candied cherry, raspberrypreserves, anise and potpourri. Shows a darker profile in the mouth, offering palate-stainingblackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong floral quality. Picks up smokiness with air andfinishes with superb focus and length and youthful tannic grip. No question that this is one of thebest wines I tasted from Gigondas this year. 93
SOUTHERN RHONE
WINE ADVOCATE – Date de parution : 31 OCT 2010 – Auteur : ROBERT PARKER
2009 Pigeoulet red
Bistros, brasseries and consumers looking for an easygoing, quaffing wine should check out the Brunier’s Le Pigeoulet, which Daniel Brunier calls a ‘retro’ style of wine (meaning that in the age of power and generosity, this is a lighter, more elegant, fruity, earthy effort meant for immediate consumption). The 2008 and 2009 vintage are cut from the same mold, with the 209 being slightly deeper, with riper fruit. This 5,000 cs cuvee offers considerable value. 85
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2015 – KERMIT LYNCH MARCH 2017 OFFER
Vieux Télégraphe’s greatest strength is undoubtedly its consistency. I am not referring to the consistency resulting from now four generations of Bruniers who know the plateau of La Crau stone for stone, as crucial as this is. Rather, I am alluding to the timeless power of this terroir, which allows for wines of noble character, profound complexity, and unrivaled typicity year in and year out. There is no question that vintage variation exists at Vieux Télégraphe – one need only taste two diametrically opposed vintages side by side, such as 2007 and 2008, to observe this phenomenon. Yet even in 2003, an infamous year in which climatic extremes all but erased the nuances of terroir across France’s wine regions, V.T. remains V.T. – ripe, no doubt, but defined more by stone than by fruit. And such is how La Crau asserts itself : the stones are omnipresent, supplying a firm spine to the wine, a salivating mineral aspect that refreshes regardless of the vintage’s overall balance.
Vigneron Daniel Brunier describes 2015 as “a superb vintage that once again proves that nothing great can be done hurriedly.” His statement applies to the growing season, which necessitated late rains to restore balance to the drought-afflicted grapes, as well as to the harvest, an exercise in patience and restraint, and finally to the vinification, in which extended macerations yielded deep tannic structures that reached a seamless integration during the wine’s élevage.
On other words, 2015 showcases La Crau in all its glory. From its pure and explosive young fruit to the wine’s momentous structure, culminating in its trademark stoniness, this is V.T. as we love it and as we have always known it.
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