(94) Brillant ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of ripe raspberry, blueberry, potpourri and garrigue, along with an exotic spice nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Subtly chewy and expansive in the mouth, showing impressive energy to its intense, mineral-laced red and blue fruit preserve, candied lavender and spicecake flavors. Finishes sappy and impressively long, with resonating spice and floral notes and harmonious tannins adding gentle grip.
94. Steeped red currant, plum and raspberry fruit splays out, while light lavender, black tea and singed juniper accents fill in. A juniper laces up the finish, lending definition while the fruit pumps through. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,700 cases imported.
94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.
(93-95). Coming from the La Crau lieu-dit, VT’s 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau looks to be another excellent vintage. The aromas are floral and fresh, suggesting roses, tea, raspberries and orange zest. The palate is full-bodied but silky and fine, with delicate spice shadings on the finish creating a particularly elegant impression.
93-95. The 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another elegant, floral example from this vintage. Black raspberries, red currants, peppery garrigue, tons of minerality, and a seaweed note that I always find in this cuvée gives way to a rich, medium to full-bodied, balanced, structured wine that has everything in the right places. With good acidity, ripe, present tannin, and plenty of length, it will need 3-5 years of cellaring and keep for 15-20 years.