(94) Full and broad, with a well-structured framework for the green plum and citrus cream flavors, while subtle fleur de sel and buttercream notes stream along. The texture starts out glycerol smooth, then is propped up by chalky, slightly bitter tannins to pleasing effect. Fresh, with good intensity and balance through the powerful finish. This has a long life ahead in the cellar. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2035.
(97) The 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc stopped me in my tracks and has an incredible sense of class. Fabulous stone fruits, honeyed orange, white flowers, and a beautiful sense of minerality all define this brilliant white, and it has nicely integrated background oak, medium to full body, a pure, layered, elegant mouthfeel, and a great finish. It’s a “wow” white that brings both richness and freshness. Drink bottles over the coming decade.
(97) The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc might be one of the best examples of this white that’ I’ve tasted. Incredible pear, white flowers, salty minerality, and hints of ripe citrus define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, has remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that’s brought up mostly in foudre (there’s a small part in demi-muids and barrel), it deserves 2-3 years in the cellar and will have two decades or more of overall longevity.
(93) The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is made from Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. It presents lively aromas of grapefruit, sping flowers, white peach and a pinch of mango. This medium-bodied wine hits the palate with excellent flavor concentration and crisp acidity, finishing bright and juicy.
(93) The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau checks in at a moderate 13.5% alcohol. It displays enticing aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon peel, lime zest, white peach and hints of fresh coconut. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, the 2020 concludes with a sapid finish and will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next seven years.
(94) Vieux Télégraphe’s 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is a delicious blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Fragrant aromas of spring flowers, grapefruit, quince, lemon zest, white peach, melon and a flinty twist introduce this 2019 La Crau. It is a full-bodied, refined white with moderate levels of round acidity and great persistence on the finish.
(93) The 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is showing well. Mixing bright aromas of jasmine, dried lemon peel, lime zest, yellow apple, white peach, pineapple, dried ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, vibrant with a core of fresh acidity, it concludes with a sapid finish and a modestly salty aftertaste.
(92) The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is delightful, offering a fresh and fragrant bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, accented by a hint of green apple. The 2023 delivers ample energy on the medium-to full-bodied palate an exits with a refined finish. As with the red, Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau in 2022 vintage due to the devastating August hailstorms.
(93) Attention-grabbing notes of flintstone, lemon flesh, ripe pear and dried flowers introduce the multifaceted 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau, a medium-bodied white with remarkable freshness. Carrying spot-on balance, the tasty 2017 sits in a beautiful drinking spot, where I suspect it will remain for five more years. A long and sapid finish wraps it up.
Subtle, elegant and very refined white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It shows aromas of citrons, pears, wild herbs, fennel and blanched almonds. It’s medium-bodied with balance and a refined character throughout. Textural, caressing, precise and silky on the mid-palate. Flavorful and harmonious with a focused finish. Drink or hold. 95 pts
93. Bottled just one week before my 2022 visit, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was showing no ill effects then and confirmed its quality when I retasted it in June 2023. Effusive notes of citrus, white peach and pineapple burst from the glass, while in the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, plump and rounded, with a silky feel and a charming note of fennel on the lingering, refreshing finish. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
95 pts. Stunningly complex nose of dried flowers, beeswax and candied citrus peel. However, the interplay of richness and freshness on the palate tops it. Extremely long finish where the fine tannins build and build at the salty climax. A cuvee based on clairette with grenache blanc, roussanne and a little bourboulenc. Some of the vines date back more than a century, but the majority are about 40-50 years old. Drink or hold.
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is showing even better today than when I tasted it last year. Pear, stone fruits, and crushed stone as well as a kiss of black licorice emerge on the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a great mid-palate, flawless balance, and a wonderful sense of freshness and purity. Give bottles another year or two, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 15+ years. 96 pts.
The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc might be one of the best examples of this white that’ I’ve tasted. Incredible pear, white flowers, salty minerality, and hints of ripe citrus define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, has remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that’s brought up mostly in foudre (there’s a small part in demi-muids and barrel), it deserves 2-3 years in the cellar and will have two decades or more of overall longevity. 97 pts.
95. Plenty of fresh-nut character, plus notes of bread dough and candied lemon on the enticing nose. Rich and creamy palate, the underlining stony character complementing this very neatly. Long and complete finish with serious textural and mineral complexity. From the Domaine du Vieux Télégraph stable. Drink or hold.
Comme Hippolyte, leur ancêtre qui faisait tourner une loterie et avait commencé à planter sur le plateau, ils ont tout misé sur la Crau pour ce blanc et ses clairettes centenaires qui font la moitié du chemin dans la bouteille. Le reste est parcouru par le grenache blanc, la roussanne et le bourboulenc. Bonne pioche, c’est délicieux, une gourmandise subtile, filiforme, verticale, un esprit élevé aussi haut que le Ventoux.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WHITE LA CRAU 2020
95 points | $87 | 348 cases imported | White
Well-built, with a steady intensity to the waves of white peach, star fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and mirabelle plum. Delivers flashes of lemon shortbread and quinine through the finish, giving it both plump and racy elements. This is hard to lay off now, but it has some development ahead of it. Clairetty, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2030. — J.M.
95. One of my favorite whites from the south of France is Daniel Brunier’s Châteaneuf du Pape Blanc and his 2019 is another stunning effort. Always a blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up in foudre, this beauty boasts and exotic nose of honeyed peach, quince, crushed citrus, and salty minerality, all with a floral edge. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with flawless balance and beautifully integrate acidity, enjoy this concentrated white anytime over the coming 15-20 years.
96. Traditionally dominated by clairette (45%) and grenache blanc (30%), then roussanne and bourboulenc. The vines average 50+ years and there’s a very restrained nose with dialed-back white-pear and chalk aromas with dried flowers, too. The palate has a super fresh, zippy feel and a long, juicy and attractive core of fresh, salty minerals. The balance is innate and very fluid. Drink or hold.
93-95+. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up mostly in foudre, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers a more crystalline style with its white peach, crushed citrus, white flower, and obvious minerality. Clean, pure, and chiseled on the palate, it has good concentration, and almost red wine-like structure, and a great finish. It’s going to age beautifully.
(94-95). Bright straw-yellow. Powerful aromas of fresh pear and white peach are complicated by suggestions of orange zest, iodine and succulent lowers. Sappy and impressively delineated on the palate, offering intense pear skin, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle flavors that deepen and pread out steadily on the back half. Hints of marzipan and candied ginger emerge on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish that echoes the floral and citrus fruit notes.
96. A stonier, more mineral expression of white Châteauneuf with impressive body and concentration. Super-fresh, white flowers, flint and delicate pears here. The palate has a strong, mineral edge, smooth phenolics, fleshy stone fruit and a neat, fine, chalky finish. Drink in 2020
(93-95). VT’s 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of 45% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc, fermented in a mix of foudres, demi-muids and barriques. It’s medium to full-bodied but tight, with crisp lime, lemon and pear notes carried on a silky-textured palate. You could drink this on release and enjoy it for its focus and delineation, or you could give the inner richness the time it needs (2-3 years) to emerge and soften the subtle citrus zest notes on the finish
95. It’s always more straight, focused, and chiseled than the La Roquète. Lemon curd, white flowers, salty minerality, and ample licorice notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, beautifully balanced white. Give it a few years.
95. Ripe and rich, but focused, with verbena, bitter almond and wet stone notes threading through the core of creamed yellow apple, pear and melon flavors. Very long, with a gorgeous salted butter echo. Drink now through 2020. 2,100 cases made.
94. Limpid yellow. Penetrating citrus and orchard fruit aromas are joined by suggestions of chalky minerals, fennel and jasmine. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering mineral-driven pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb definition and drive. The mineral and pear notes repeat emphatically on the nervy finish, which hangs on with impressive focus and persistence.
94. In just one short year, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has blossomed into a richer wine, with ripe pineapple and tangerine flavors balanced by crisp lime notes. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts a lovely, silky texture and a long, finely nuanced finish. It should drink well for another 5-7 years.
95. It’s always more straight, focused, and chiseled than the La Roquète. Lemon curd, white flowers, salty minerality, and ample licorice notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, beautifully balanced white. Give it a few years.
Breezy, blossomy style with citrus pith. Full-bodied with good concentration but good acidity, fresh and lively. There’s lovely balance between vibrant fresh fruits, acidity and some discreet, pithy structural bitterness. The long finish displays some subtle oak influence.
Drinkin window 2018-2022
Dom du Vieux Télégraphe 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Stunning baked-apple fruit with cinnamon spice and white chocolate. Charming and generous, but has good acidic backbone too. Refreshing and satisfying, and concentrated enough to age well. (RH)Drink 2018-2024
£55 RRP imported by Thorman Hunt 17+
91. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is tight and zesty, reflecting its high proportion of Clairette (40%), low proportion of Roussanne (15%) and the addition of Bourboulenc (15%) to the blend. Lime zest and the merest hints of pencil shavings mark this medium-bodied white. If you enjoy aging your white Châteauneufs, this would be one to put away.
95. Ripe and rich, but focused, with verbena, bitter almond and wet stone notes threading through the core of creamed yellow apple, pear and melon flavors. Very long, with a gorgeous salted butter echo.
Brilliant straw-gold. Mineral-laced citrus and orcahrd fruit aromas show excellent clarity and a suave floral overtone. Minerally and delineated on the palate, which displays sharply focused pear, tangerine and honeysuckle flavors that turn fleshier with air. Concentrated yet light on its feet. A vibrant mineral note drives the impressively long, floral finish. 92 pts
The palate is crisp and floral, with dried flowers and chalk. An extremely savory and stony expression. Impressive. Average
vine age of 50 years.. 95 Pts
95. This is packed with a range of star fruit, anise, white peach, yellow apple and Cavaillon melon notes that run seamlessly together, gilded with chamomile and orange blossom details on the creamy finish. An echo of wet pebbles adds further range and intrigue. 342 cases imported.
95. While I’ve always loved the white from the Brunier brothers, the 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc is the finest example of this cuvée I can remember tasting. It’s light gold color is followed by an impeccably balanced, ultra-pure, seamless white that has complex notes of white flowers, hazelnuts, just crushed rocks and citrus blossom. This beauty doesn’t hit you over the head with fruit or sweetness, yet grows on you with time in the glass. You can drink it today, as well as cellar it for two decades.
(90-92) : Brilliant straw. Lively scents of pear and lemon curd pick up smoky mineral and tarragon accents as the wine oopens up. SIlky and seamless on the palate, offering nervy orchard fruit and citrus fruit flavors energized by juicy acidity and a gingery nuance. Shows impressive power and intensity on the penetrating finish, which leaves behind notes of bitter pear skin and dusty minerals.
17/20. Merveilleuse matière, notes de fenouil et d’anis parmi les plus fins de l’appellation.
92 – 76$ : Pale yellow. Sharply focused aromas of fresh pear and Meyer lemon take on a weightier peach quality with air while maintaining vivacity. Silky and seamless on the palate, offering incisive citrus and pit fruit flavors complemented by suave floral and mineral notes. Shows impressive power and intensity on the mineral-driven finish, which leaves behind notes of citrus pith and honeysuckle.
91 – 76$ : Light, bright yellow. Fresh orange, nectarine and pungent floral qualities on the nose, along with hints of ginger and honey. Silky and seamless in texture, offering sappy citrus fruit and pear nectar flavors and a touch of smoky minerality. The pit fruit note comes back on the long, penetrating finish, which shows a silky quality and no rough edges.
16/20. Ce vin vif et enjoué, aux tonalités minérales et chaleureuses, agrémenté de parfums de fruits et de fleurs jaunes, de liqueur de pêche, s\’émancipe énergiquement en un nectar fluide et gargarisant. Il imprègne durablement nos papilles
93. It’s a layered, classic white from appellation that has plenty of pear and stone fruits, white flowers and big minerality in its medium-bodied, seamless, yet concentrated profile. While certainly beautiful now, it will age gracefully for decades
Ce blanc propose davantage de volume et une sensation presque tannique avec de fins amers en finale.
Starting out, this is a blend of roughly 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc and the balance Roussanne and Bourboulenc that-s aged all in foudre. A textbook Chateauneuf du Pape white, it offers clean, pretty notes of white peach, green almond and honeysuckle as well as a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, yet very fresh and crisp feel on the palate. Enjoy it anytime over the coming decade or more. Drink now-2022 . 93 pts
The totally brilliant 2010 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc is an old vine blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache blanc, 15% Roussanne, and 15% Bourboulenc that’s aged in 1/3 foudre, 1/3 demi-muid, and 1/3 in barrels (10% new). Easily the best white I’ve tasted from this estate, it delivers a rocking bouquet of crisp peach and pear fruit that are livened up by richer, custard like qualities and riveting minerality. Medium to full-bodied on the palate and brilliantly concentrated, with a rich, yet light texture, good acidity, and a very long, classically dry finish. This fantastic white is deft and crisp enough to enjoy on its own, but has the richness to pair with a wide variety of fare. It should age beautifully for 15 years.
This cuts a nice path, with crème fraîche, green plum, pear and Jonagold apple flavors all woven together and offset nicely by a flash of quinine on the finish. This should age well. This best vintage yet for a Vieux Télégraphe white. Drink now through 2014
This example is more delicate than previous vintages, but well-delineated with hints of wet rocks, quince and honeyed citrus offered in a medium to full-bodied, fresh, lively style. Less weighty and powerful than the 2009, the elegant 2010 should drink well for 1-2 years.
91. Pale gold. Bright and racy on the nose and palate, offering lively lemon, orange and pear qualities and zesty minerality. Fleshy but dry, with very good back-end cut and finishing clarity. I like the combination of power and finesse here. This wine has a sound track record for aging and I suspect that this will be a really interesting wine five or six years down the road.
92. Light, bright gold. Sexy aromas of orange, poached pear, jasmine and ginger. Juicy, fresh and concentrated, offering zesty citrus and orchard fruit flavors that become sweeter and spicier with air. Shows excellent focus on the long, energetic finish, which features notes of smoky minerals and nectarine.
Exhibits delicate floral notes interwoven with hints of pears, nectarines, red currants and crushed rocks. It is a fresh, full-bodied, delicious white to enjoy over the next several years.
Excibits delicate floral notes interwoven with hints of pears, nectarines, red currants and crushed rocks. It is a fresh, full bodied, delicious white to enjoy over the next several years. 90pts.
Greenish yellow. Ripe melon and peach on the nose, with lively citrus and mineral nuances adding vibrancy. Pliant and smooth, offering pure honeydew and pit fruit flavors underscored by talc and spicecake. The finish is spicy, stony and impressively pure.
14/20. Le boisé vanillé domine encore le nez, qui se poursuit par des notes de moka ; le vin se révèle ample et flatteur en bouche avec une certaine vivacité en finale.
Ripe, honeyed style, with grilled hazelnut and heath notes up front, followed by bitter orange, nectarine and lemon zest notes. Nice length and drive. Drink now through 2010
DOMAINE LA ROQUETE ET VIEUX TELEGRAPHE
On sent le même coup de partte sur ces deux vins, même si le Vieux Télégraphe s\\\’impose par une race et une classe supérieures avec son petit nez qui \ »meursaulte\ » par un boisé toasté bien maitrisé. La Roquète offre plus de nervosité, c\\\’est presque tannique en bouche et sans lourdeur/ Bravo !
90; 40% clairette, 30% grenache blanc and 15% each of roussanne and bourboulenc. Pale yellow. Sexy aromas of pear, melon, brown spices and honeysuckle, plus a hint of toasty lees. Fleshy orchard and citrus flavors stain the palate and are braced by tangy minerals. Really clings on the finish, with the leesy quality strongly repeating. This is powerful enough to serve with richly sauced poultry dishes.
**** (17) – Rich bouquet, apricot, vanilla, pepper. Good, beefy shoulders with underlying finesse. Very nice. Drink 2009-2023
90 – represents 7% of this estate’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape production. Is an unusual blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache blanc, and the rest equal parts Roussane and Bourboulenc. One of the most consistent and finest of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it offers up a floral character (reminiscent of Viognier) along with with white currants, and hints of rose water and honey. It possesses medium to full body, crisp, zesty acidity, superb purity, and an elegant mouthfeel. Enjoy it over the next several years
Dès le premier nez, on perçoit un excès de jeunesse, un manque de maturité ; le bois est encore présent, pas dominant du tout mais un élevage de quelques mois en bouteille lui permettra de s’intégrer définitivement. De même en bouche, on discerne de la profondeur, de l’intensité mais la structure lutte encore un peu avec le velours du vin. Très beau millésime de Vieux Télégraphe blanc tout en harmonie et délicatesse, il atteindra un premier équilibre en début d’année 2008 pour le plus grand plaisir des amateurs de Châteauneuf blanc de l’école classique.