93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins.
Drink 2022-2031.
96. Very complex and composed. Bright aromas of wild, red-berries and herbs. Some blueberry pastry, too. Plush, ripe and concentrated palate with long, smooth, ripe and powerful tannins. Great depth and detail. Fresh, red-berry and plum flavors run riot on the finish. Drink or hold.
91. Boasting silky tannins, strawberry-raspberry fruit and delicate herbal shadings, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme isn’t hugely rich or concentrated, but it is harmonious and graceful. Bottled in March 2018, it’s immediately approachable yet capable of providing pleasure over the next 5-7 years.
92. Bottled in April (which is always earlier than the other two Châteauneuf from this estate) it has real depth and richness as well as terrific notes of black raspberries, crushed rocks, salty, licorice, pepper, crushed flowers, and toasted spices. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, with plenty of tannins hiding under its fruit, it’s an ideal wine for readers looking to see a hint of the style of this estate. It will keep for over a decade as well.
Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Gorgeously ripe red fruit with cranberry and redcurrant flavours. Lightly spiced, superbly balanced structure with tannin and acid counterbalancing nicely. Finishes with a firm, ageable grip and lovely long savoury persistence. (RH)Drink 2020-2030
£111 per case of 6 ib Clarion Wines 17+
(89-91). Slightly more concentrated than the 2015, the 2016 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium to full-bodied yet supple, berry-scented wine. It should drink well for a decade.