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VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AVRIL 2023
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is showing well. Mixing bright aromas of jasmine, dried lemon peel, lime zest, yellow apple, white peach, pineapple, dried ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, vibrant with a core of fresh acidity, it concludes with a sapid finish and a modestly salty aftertaste.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (94)
Vieux Télégraphe’s 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is a delicious blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Fragrant aromas of spring flowers, grapefruit, quince, lemon zest, white peach, melon and a flinty twist introduce this 2019 La Crau. It is a full-bodied, refined white with moderate levels of round acidity and great persistence on the finish.
2020 Télégramme (92)
Checking in at 15% alcohol, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme reveals aromas of predominantly ripe black fruits, strawberry compote, dried herbs, mint and licorice. It is a layered, full-bodied red with ample concentration, neatly balanced by fresh acidity concluding with a touch of heat on the savory finish.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau checks in at a moderate 13.5% alcohol. It displays enticing aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon peel, lime zest, white peach and hints of fresh coconut. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, the 2020 concludes with a sapid finish and will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next seven years.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was vinified from partially de-stemmed grapes and aged in foudre. The 2020 La Crau displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age.
2021 Télégramme (91-93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme shows the characteristics of the vintage well. Mingling aromas of crushed flowers, fresh raspberry and strawberry as well as dried herbs. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, layered, framed by a smooth tannin structure and balanced by lively acids.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is made from Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. It presents lively aromas of grapefruit, sping flowers, white peach and a pinch of mango. This medium-bodied wine hits the palate with excellent flavor concentration and crisp acidity, finishing bright and juicy.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe (93-95)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.
VINOUS – JOSH RAYNOLDS – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2021
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Brillant ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of ripe raspberry, blueberry, potpourri and garrigue, along with an exotic spice nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Subtly chewy and expansive in the mouth, showing impressive energy to its intense, mineral-laced red and blue fruit preserve, candied lavender and spicecake flavors. Finishes sappy and impressively long, with resonating spice and floral notes and harmonious tannins adding gentle grip.
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Shimmering ruby-red. Expansive red fruit preserve, lavender and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of incense with air. Gently chewy and energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that flesh out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive depth but comes off lively, finishing extremely long and spicy, with building tannins adding final grip.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (95)
Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched red/blue fruit liqueur aromas pick up suggestions of licorice, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers and herbs with air. In a lush, weighty style, offering expansive black raspberry, cherry cola, singed plum and fruitcake flavors sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. For all this wine’s richness, it’s energetic as well, showing solid, spice and floral-driven persistence on the finish, which is framed by velvety, even tannins.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2024
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
Attention-grabbing notes of flintstone, lemon flesh, ripe pear and dried flowers introduce the multifaceted 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau, a medium-bodied white with remarkable freshness. Carrying spot-on balance, the tasty 2017 sits in a beautiful drinking spot, where I suspect it will remain for five more years. A long and sapid finish wraps it up.
2022 Télégramme (92)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme kicks off with crushed violets, ripe raspberry, wild strawberry and a pinch of dried herbs. Leafy gradations add more complexity. Round and elegant, the full-bodied 2022 walks off the stage with persistence on the juicy finish. What a lovely Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2022 Piedlong (94)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape PiedLong is a beauty. Prominent raspberry compote, ripe strawberry, melted licorice, dried herbs and peppery nuances rise up from the glass. Supported by ripe and sleek tannins, the full-bodied 2022 is loaded with intensity, wrapping up with endurance on the powerful finish. There’s no doubt that this is a long-distance runner. Readers should note that Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a 2022 La Crau due to the devastating hail damage in August.
2023 Télégramme (90-92)
The spicy and red-fruited 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme is shaping up to become yet another rock-solid red Châteauneuf from the talented Brunier family. Anchored by polished tannins, the fruit-driven and expressive 2023 checks out with a refreshing finish.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (92)
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is delightful, offering a fresh and fragrant bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, accented by a hint of green apple. The 2023 delivers ample energy on the medium-to full-bodied palate an exits with a refined finish. As with the red, Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau in 2022 vintage due to the devastating August hailstorms.
2023 Piedlong (91-93)
Vinified with 30% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pied Long blends 90% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre. Vivid orange blossom, wild strawberry, rosewater and spicy gradations are all dialed up. Touching the palate with ample freshness wrapped in smooth tannins, the 2023 packs remarkable elegance.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (92-94)
Vinified with 20% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau unwinds from the glass with fragrant rose petal, wild strawberry, licorice, and stemmy subtleties. Juicy and expressive, the full-bodied 2023 is immediately alluring, precisely balance and remarkably elegant on the complex finish. I can’t wait to taste it from bottle.
VINOUS – THE RICHES AND RICHNESS OF CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE – JOSH RAYNOLDS
VINOUS.COM – DÉC 2019
Châteauneuf-du-Pape fans will find plenty to like from 2017, a vintage marked by consistently warm to hot weather that yielded distinctly rich, fleshy, fruit-driven wines. The growing season presented its share of challenges, and yet the best wines are compelling. Even so, readers need to be selective, as the style of the year is quite particular, and some wines are overdone.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017
94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
Télégramme rouge 2017
92-93. Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016
95. Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and suave, harmonious tannins. Drink 2024-2034.
Télégramme rouge 2016
93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins. Drink 2022-2031.
VINOUS – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANCS 16 ET 17
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016
94. Limpid yellow. Penetrating citrus and orchard fruit aromas are joined by suggestions of chalky minerals, fennel and jasmine. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering mineral-driven pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb definition and drive. The mineral and pear notes repeat emphatically on the nervy finish, which hangs on with impressive focus and persistence.
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017
(94-95). Bright straw-yellow. Powerful aromas of fresh pear and white peach are complicated by suggestions of orange zest, iodine and succulent lowers. Sappy and impressively delineated on the palate, offering intense pear skin, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle flavors that deepen and pread out steadily on the back half. Hints of marzipan and candied ginger emerge on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish that echoes the floral and citrus fruit notes
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