Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2020
WINE SPECTATOR – KRISTEN BIELER – DÉGUSTATION Mars 2024
(94) This shows a lot of aromatic appeal, with dusty earth and singed incense notes covering a well of fresh cherry and red currant flavors. A gutsy, grippy style on the palate, with a cast iron spine bringing firm shape and underlying power. Slightly old-school, this still needs time to unfurl. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2025 through 2035. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.
WINE SPECTATOR – JAMES MOLESWORTH – DÉGUSTATION JANVIER 2022
(95) A nice throwback style, with a range of dried lavender and rosemary notes peeking out from a cedar-framed core of mulled cherry, blood orange and plum fruit. Features warm stone, licorice root and tobacco leaf accents that fill in through the energetic finish. A wine that’s very confident in its terroir. Best from 2024 through 2038. 2,495 cases imported.
JEB DUNNUCK – DÉGUSTATION OCTOBRE 2024
(95) The classic 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape checks in as 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah raised all in foudre. It’s another incredibly classic wine from this domaine that has beautiful red fruit (cherries, framboise) as well as a mineral-laced array of garrigue, sappy flowers, and crushed stone. With medium to full-bodied richness, a pure, elegant mouthfeel, and building tannins, it will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and have two decades of overall longevity.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AVRIL 2023
(93-95) The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AVRIL 2023
(94) The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was vinified from partially de-stemmed grapes and aged in foudre. The 2020 La Crau displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age.
VINOUS – JOSH RAYNOLDS – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2021
(95) Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched red/blue fruit liqueur aromas pick up suggestions of licorice, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers and herbs with air. In a lush, weighty style, offering expansive black raspberry, cherry cola, singed plum and fruitcake flavors sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. For all this wine’s richness, it’s energetic as well, showing solid, spice and floral-driven persistence on the finish, which is framed by velvety, even tannins.
VINOUS – JOSH RAYNOLDS – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2021
(94) Shimmering ruby-red. Expansive red fruit preserve, lavender and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of incense with air. Gently chewy and energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that flesh out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive depth but comes off lively, finishing extremely long and spicy, with building tannins adding final grip.
VINOUS – JOSH RAYNOLDS – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2021
(94) Brillant ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of ripe raspberry, blueberry, potpourri and garrigue, along with an exotic spice nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Subtly chewy and expansive in the mouth, showing impressive energy to its intense, mineral-laced red and blue fruit preserve, candied lavender and spicecake flavors. Finishes sappy and impressively long, with resonating spice and floral notes and harmonious tannins adding gentle grip.
VINOUS – NICOLAS GREINACHER – DÉGUSTATION AOUT 2024
(92-94) Vinified with 20% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau unwinds from the glass with fragrant rose petal, wild strawberry, licorice, and stemmy subtleties. Juicy and expressive, the full-bodied 2023 is immediately alluring, precisely balance and remarkably elegant on the complex finish. I can’t wait to taste it from bottle.
WINE ADVOCATE – YOHAN CASTAING – DÉGUSTATION OCTOBRE 2024
(95) Delicate aromas of spices, licorice, garrigue, dark berries and dark cherries preface the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is framed around velvety, elegant tannins, with good depth at the core and a pure, precise texture that segues into a long, delicate and ethereal finish. Superb!
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AVRIL 2024 – JAMES SUCKLING
Fresh forest berry, savory and wet earth aromas are married to a lovely freshness and fine tannins on the lively medium-to full-bodied palate. Very elegant finish that teases you with all its subtle nuances. A cuvee of 70% grenache, 15% syrah and 15% mourvedre. Drink or hold. 95 pts
JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023
93. The Grand Vin from this great estate, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Paoe reveals a semi-opaque ruby hue to go with a classic style in its ripe red and black berry fruits, peppery garrigue, leather, earth, black olive and baking spice-driven aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, and balanced, with fine tannins, it’s a beautiful wine in the vintage that should have 15 years of longevity.
WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023
92-94. Still in tank when I visited in June 2023, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features scents of crushed stone accenting ripe cherries and hints of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers taut acids allied to silky tannins and ample length on the finish. It’s not a huge blockbuster, but it fits nicely with the Brunier family’s evolution toward more elegance in their wines. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
LA RVF – N°674 – OCTOBRE 2023 – ROBERTO PETRONIO
98-99/100
Archétype du grand vin issu du terroir de La Crau, il est vinifié partiellement en grappes entières afin d’absorber les degrés qui grimpent vite dans ce secteur. Il développe une aromatique somptueuse où le floral domine. Un nez profond qui résonne à travers une matière fraîche et pleine mais sérieuse car profilée par des tanins serrés et fins qui le destinent à la garde.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 avril 2023
97pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.
DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape also showed well, with a lighter, elegant style that still brings plenty of intensity. Black cherries, mulberries, dried violets, and loamy earth define the bouquet, and it’s medium-bodied, balanced, and finesse-driven on the palate, with ripe tannins as well as a terrific sense of salinity on the finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15+. 94 pts.
DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022
The Grand Vin is always from the heart of the La Crau lieu-dit and is 65% Grenache with the balance Mourvedre and Syrah. The 2021 saw about 30% stems and is being brought up in foudre. It has a beautiful core of red fruits (strawberries and redcurrants) as well as classic notes of crushed stone, pepper, garrigue, and sandalwood. Playing in the medium-bodied, elegant, seamless end of the spectrum, it has fine tannins and outstanding length. It’s a pretty, silky, impressive 2021 with class. 92-94 pts.
WINE SPECTATOR MAGAZINE – TOP 100 WINES OF 2022
Châteauneuf-du-Pape . Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe – La Crau 2019 : 71/100
Silky and refined, with focused cherry puree, plum reduction and raspberry coulis notes racing through, infused subtly with rose petal, warm stone and lavender hints. Features nice perfume through the finish.
James Molesworth
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Il vient apporter la preuve que 20 ans est un bien bel âge. Fraîcheur des accents mentholés, cuir frais, peau tannée en douceur « avant de transpirer sur le cheval » et puis des notes de cyprès et de pierre blache dans la chaleur d’un matin d’été au jardin des Alyscamps en Arles. Pourtant la fraîcheur est énorme qui le rend désalterant, pas une once de lourdeur, les cerises craquantes et le rouge éclatant de la tunique écarlate d’un empereur romain. Vingt ans et la vie devant soi.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
C’est son équilibre qui l’a mené si loin dans ce millésime honnête. Frangrances de papier bible, des arômes automnaux, de chrysanthème frais, le cousu-main d’une dentelle d’Arlésienne au regard profond, une merveille de délicatesse, les hanches souple, promesse érotique.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Il a 15 ans cet élégant qui balade ses commencements truffés, son balancement velouté et ces gestes purs qui n’appartiennent qu’à lui. Une succession de vagues de La Mer de Debussy, des éclats de lumière pourpre, des notes prolongées à l’infini. Celui-là se boira sans cesse excellent, Daniel Brunier l’affirme : « Il sera toujours plus patient que toi. » Nous vieillirons ensemble, c’est le mouvement perpétuel du Boléro de Ravel, sa finale est éternelle.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE
96-97. Such a deep and meaty nose with a slew of wild-herb, savory and subtle balsamic notes. Then comes the expansive and very concentrated palate, which reveals so many spicy nuances as it rolls over the palate, the stunning fine tannins pushing the finish out even further. A grenach-based blend from 60-year-old vines.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022
97. If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
EN MAGNUM
« À 5 ans il semblait au bout, à 10 ans il a fait un palier. » Il monte toujours ! Aujourd’hui il a 36 ans. Ce sont les vieilles vignes qui l’on fait, celles de la 3e et de la 4e génération des Brunier, plantées sur le plateau et seulement là. Définition toujours micrométrique, pas un écart, des fruits rouges superbes. Sensualité des courbes épicées, voluptueux, un rayonnement lumineux, heureux, accompli, c’est L’Été de Vivaldi.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Le premier millésime de la 5e génération, les deux frères Brunier, Daniel et Frédéric, il y a quarante ans. Mentholé, truffée, nerveux, frais et léger comme un matin d’avril sur la Crau, couleur éclatante, tanins doux dessinés à main levée, une pointe épicée. Un quadra jeune et séduisant…
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Prélevé dans le chai dédié aux Vieux Télégraphe sur l’un des 19 foudres, précisément le numéro 7, voilà un jeune plein d’avenir, l’éclat de fruit juteux et généreux, l’équilibre, la finesse de la pensée naissante, la promesse d’un millésime de haut niveau. Brillant comme les violons heureux du premier mouvement des Quatre Saison de Vivaldi.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Sur l’étiquette, la gravure de la tour érigée par Claude Chappe, inventeur du télégraphe optique, et l’élégante typo gothique connue dans le monde entier. À l’intérieur du flacon, l’esprit de la terre de la Crau parle sa langue pure et profonde. L’élégance est déjà là, la densité et la richesse contenue aussi, c’est la marque du grenache arrivé tranquillement à maturité. Édouard Brunier le dit ainsi : «Ça grenache grave ! » On touche à la structure architecturale d’un monument construit pour témoigner de la longévite des grands vins d’ici.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Cette année-là on fut à l’équilibre des rendements, 30 hectolitres par hectare. On a ici le témoignage du comportement sévère fu granche au bout de cinq ans avec à l’attaque des notes de jujube un peu flétri. C’est ce moment d’austérité où le fruit se rassemble, prend son escousse, c’est un instant d’évolution propre aux grands millésimes, tout sauf le déclin, juste un temps de pause en attendant son regain de vitalité. Ce sont les accents graves d’un mouvement lent des suites pour violoncelle de Bach avant les cuivres de Haendel.
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
« Il faut croire en la Crau ! » C’est Frédéric Brunier qui le dit. Il faut dire que le grenache, toujours dominant dans les vins du Vieux Télégraphe, a l’art de la sinusoïde ascendante, malgré cette année-là un rendement plus faible à 25 hectolitres par hectare. Ce cépage procède par paliers successifs, un chapelet d’apogées qui le mène loin dans le temps au-delà de 50 ans. Il atteint ici le premier avec des notes de cerise noire et de jolis amers caféinés, prolongés par des notes délicatement chocolatées exceptionnelles. Un ardent prince du temps. Toujours cette expression nette des saveurs précises, un tempo équilibré. On songe aux accords du clavecin de Scott Ross dans l’une des sonates de Scarlatti, la ciselure ardente et rythmée.
WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 26 JANVIER, 2022
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphhe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2019
93 points – $105 – 2,841 cases imported – Red
Silky and refined, with focused cherry puree, plum, reduction and raspberry coulis notes racing through, infused subtly with rose petal, warm stone and lavender hints. Features nice perfume through the finish. Grenache, Mouvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2036.
LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSEAUVE – GUIDE 2022 – 10 OCTOBRE, 2021
98 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE 2019
La grande émotion de notre dégustation. Finesse de texture à couper de souffle, matière magnifique, fruit parfaitement mûr, avec cette impression folle d’évidence. L’évidence du grand vin, la tendresse en plus. Un modèle pour tous. Le cru est au sommet de son art.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020
96-98. Looking at the flagship 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape from this benchmark estate, it reveals a denser ruby/purple color as well as stunning notes of smoke red and black fruits, crushed rocks, peppery garrigue, and truffly earth. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it stays tight and compact on the palate, with terrific mid-palate depth, a focused, structure mouthfeel and one great finish. This is a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape from the Brunier family that’s going to benefit from upwards of 5-7 years of bottle age and have 30+ years of overall longevity.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020
94. The flagship of the great estate is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape and it could quite possibly be one of the longest lived wines in the 2018 vintage, which in general, is a charming, forward vintage geared for consumption in the first decade of life. Revealing a more ruby, almost translucent color as well as a greal perfume of wild strawberries, blackberries, Asian spices, peppery garrigue, and flowers, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a building, undeniable sense of minerality, plenry of mid-palate depth, and enough tannins to warrant 2-3 years or bottle age. lt has the more upfront, expressive style of the vintage yet my money is on this evolving for 15-20 years.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK
93-95. The grand vin is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape. It’s an elegant version of this cuvée, offering beautiful blueberry, raspberry, crushed violet, graphite, and crush rock-like minerality. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and balanced, it’s polished and seamless, yet has plenty of tannins as well as richness, and is going to evolve beautifully.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING
94-95. The finished blend that is now aging another year in 60 hectoliter barrels, this has a very fleshy, round, rich and smooth-honed palate that has such completeness already. The raspberries and red plums are stunning here. The tannins are there and very open-knit and there’s a super sapid feel to the finish. The 15% mourvedre does much of the heavy lifting here. It shapes the finish and drags it deep. Around one-third from crushed grapes with stems. Drinkable on release, but best from 2024.
WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH
94. Steeped red currant, plum and raspberry fruit splays out, while light lavender, black tea and singed juniper accents fill in. A juniper laces up the finish, lending definition while the fruit pumps through. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,700 cases imported.
VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS
94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING
96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.
WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI
(93-95). Coming from the La Crau lieu-dit, VT’s 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau looks to be another excellent vintage. The aromas are floral and fresh, suggesting roses, tea, raspberries and orange zest. The palate is full-bodied but silky and fine, with delicate spice shadings on the finish creating a particularly elegant impression.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018
93-95. The 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another elegant, floral example from this vintage. Black raspberries, red currants, peppery garrigue, tons of minerality, and a seaweed note that I always find in this cuvée gives way to a rich, medium to full-bodied, balanced, structured wine that has everything in the right places. With good acidity, ripe, present tannin, and plenty of length, it will need 3-5 years of cellaring and keep for 15-20 years.
LE REVUE DE VIN DE FRANCE – NOV 2019 – LA PASSION DU FRUIT, POUR LE RHÔNE MÉRIDIONAL – OLIVIER POUSSIER
Belle définition de fruit, pulpeux et précis. Des notes de fruit macérés, d’épices, un boisé subtil : la bouche se montre cossue, avec une trame concentrée en finesse, des saveurs de noyaux, de maquis. Le vin possède une belle sève. Il traversera les années.
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE – SEPT/OCT 2019 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
C’est un balcon de galets roulés aveuglants qui regarde le Ventoux, les Dentelles. L’été la chaleau fait trembler l’air et les silhouettes. Pourtant, grâce au vent et aux hommes, pas une once de lourdeur, un éclat pourpre, la noble sucrosité et les épices délicates illuminent le palais, les Brunier maîtrisent leur «climat».
SOMMELIERS INTERNATIONAL – #165 – AUTOMNE 2019 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016
CE QU’EN PENSENT LES SOMMELIER
La cuvée Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 est constituée de 65% de Grenache noir, 15% de Mourvèdre, 15% de Syrah et 5% de Cinsault et de Clairette. Cette cuvée, produite à 200 000 exemplaires, a subi un élevage de 20-22 mois en foudres de chêne français de 60 hectolitres, puis mise en bouteilles sans collage ni filtration.
Robe: grenat intense aux reflets légèrement violacés.
Nez: complexe et élégant. Il s’ouvre sur une palette aromatique exceptionnelle, de fruits rouges et noirs, de garrigue, de réglisse et de poivre.
Bouche: onctueuse, ample, volumineuse. On retrouve les notes de fruits rouges, soutenues par des tannins fins et délicats. Finale longue et délicieuse.
Accord: un carré d’agneau rôti aux herbes de maquis.
Commentaire: un flacon mythique.
VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS
95. Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and suave, harmonious tannins.
Drink 2024-2034
KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT – MARCH 2019 NEWSLETTER – CHRIS SANTINI
Daniel Brunier was absolutely beside himself with anticipation last month when the subject of the 2016 Vieux Télégraphe vintage came up. “I would never use this word lightly, but 2016 is the absolute best vintage I’ve ever seen here since 1978… I loved the 2010, the 2007, there were others which gave great emotion, but 2016…” and with that he just nodded his head in disbelief. This was at a casual, home-cooked, off-the-record dinner, not at a trade or promotional event. “This vintage is so… vibrant. The rusticity of our La Crau vineyards, of the old Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is back”.
Intrigued, we went to the cellars the next day to taste. We tasted out of the casks, and indeed what was in the glass was unlike no other Châteauneuf I’ve ever experienced. The juice was luminous and bright, clearly alive and kicking. The taste was salty and spicy, herbal and airy…hardly what one would expect from this neck of the woods, yet a profile for which I believe all great southern wines can strive for, and perhaps once did strive for a few generations ago.
Four generations of Bruniers have been farming the rock covered La Crau plateau since 1891. The steady family stewardship of the land, coupled with one of the most singular terroirs of the world (the rock covered plateau where these vines grow is at points four meters deep with rock before you hit a grain of soil), along with ideal growing conditions and a winemaking approach of zero extraction, gives you…2016 Vieux Télégraphe.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – NOV. 4, 2018
Vieux Télégraphe ambassadeur de la Vallée du Rhône dans le dernier top100 de James Suckling en 72ème place.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING
98. Impressive, Complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink of hold.
WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI
96. Undoubtedly one of the top vintages of this wine, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features classy notes of crushed stones and black tea to go along with ripe raspberries and black cherries. Full-bodied yet silky, there’s more power and richness in La Crau than in Piedlong, yet there’s commensurate elegance and finesse. The wine grows in intensity on the finish without ever seeming heavy or overripe, instead offering hints of tea and licorice.
JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018
97. Bottled just last week, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers a classic, gorgeous bouquet of black raspberries, currants, violets, salty minerality, nori (seaweed wrapper) and licorice. Full-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant, with fine tannin, and a huge finish, this is classic Vieux Télégraphe all the way that has the balance to drink now.
DECANTER – Tasted by Matt WALLS (at En Primeur tastings, Rhône) 93
Lifted raspberry, raspberry leaf, strawberry and violet, with some herbal hints of sage. It has that strawberry character so distinctive of Vieux Telegraphe. It has juicy, sweet fruit, very fine tannins ans raspberry acidity. The alcohol is fairly high, but it’s otherwise well balanced.
Drinkin window 2018-2028
WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI
(94-96). In contrast to the Piedlong, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is a darker, richer wine. Yes, there are ripe cherries but also cola, blueberries and spice. Full-bodied and rich, it should easily outdistance the 2015.
Daniel Brunier said that all of the estate’s 2016 reds are 15.5% alcohol or more, yet I didn’t find excessive heat in any of them—a testament to the richness of the wines and the balance achieved in this vintage. With similar growing seasons and yields between 2015 and 2016, Brunier says, « I don’t know where comes the differences. » The family’s joint venture with American importer Kermit Lynch, Domaine Les Pallières, is also worth a strong look.
WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH
95. This has a lovely, perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes all mixed together, carried by silky but ample structure before ending with a long, mineral- and shiso leaf-infused finish. Finely beaded acidity lets everything hang wonderfully. This should expand and cruise in the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 13,500 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.
WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI
94. The flagship wine, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties. It features delicate floral scents and ample cherry and licorice aromas. Somehow, it manages to be full-bodied and almost creamy in texture but without much weight, then it ends powerfully, with a flourish of rich Mexican chocolate on the long, silky finish. It should drink well for up to 20 years.
WINE SPECTATOR – SEPT. 13, 2017 – VOL 13, No 36 – J.MOLESWORTH
95. This has a loverly perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes, with finely beaded acidity and silky but ample structure. Long, mineral – and shiso leaf – infused finish.
VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS
Brilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building tannins adding shape and grip. I really like the blend of structure and fruit here. (92-94) pts
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING
A wine with playful, attractive character. An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive. This will live super long. Try after 2020. 96 pts
THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER – AOUT 2017 – JEFF LEVE
Silky, ripe, sweet and fresh, the wine offers a classic, elegant profile of Grenache, with a focus on its ripe, sweet, cherry core of fruit. Soft polished, long, fresh and pure, the wine is not about power. Instead, what you have is an elegant, fresh sweet expression of fruit. Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault. 94 Pts
KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT – MARCH 2017 OFFER
Vieux Télégraphe’s greatest strength is undoubtedly its consistency. I am not referring to the consistency resulting from now four generations of Bruniers who know the plateau of La Crau stone for stone, as crucial as this is. Rather, I am alluding to the timeless power of this terroir, which allows for wines of noble character, profound complexity, and unrivaled typicity year in and year out. There is no question that vintage variation exists at Vieux Télégraphe – one need only taste two diametrically opposed vintages side by side, such as 2007 and 2008, to observe this phenomenon. Yet even in 2003, an infamous year in which climatic extremes all but erased the nuances of terroir across France’s wine regions, V.T. remains V.T. – ripe, no doubt, but defined more by stone than by fruit. And such is how La Crau asserts itself : the stones are omnipresent, supplying a firm spine to the wine, a salivating mineral aspect that refreshes regardless of the vintage’s overall balance.
Vigneron Daniel Brunier describes 2015 as “a superb vintage that once again proves that nothing great can be done hurriedly.” His statement applies to the growing season, which necessitated late rains to restore balance to the drought-afflicted grapes, as well as to the harvest, an exercise in patience and restraint, and finally to the vinification, in which extended macerations yielded deep tannic structures that reached a seamless integration during the wine’s élevage.
On other words, 2015 showcases La Crau in all its glory. From its pure and explosive young fruit to the wine’s momentous structure, culminating in its trademark stoniness, this is V.T. as we love it and as we have always known it.
WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK
(92 – 94). The 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape is a classic wine from this team that shows the elegance and purity that’s the hallmark of the estate. Crushed flowers, lots of salty minerality, black raspberries and spice flow to a medium to full-bodied, layered Châteauneuf du Pape that needs 4-5 years of cellaring and will drink nicely over the following 10-15 years
WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK
91. The flagship 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape is medium-bodied, silky and elegant, with pretty notes of raspberries, crushed rocks, ground herbs and sappy flowers. It plays in the medium-bodied style of the vintage, yet has terrific elegance, as well as a tight, energetic style, fine tannin and impeccable balance. Drink it anytime over the coming decade or so.
VINEOUS – AVRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS
(91-93) : Vivid ruby. Intense red and dark berry aromas are complemented by peppery spice, garrigue and floral pastille notes. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering concentrated, vivacious black raspberry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors. Supple, harmonious tannins build steadily on the very long, seamless finish, which leaves behind lavender and juicy dark berry notes.
INTERNATIONAL WINE REPORT – JOE D’ANGELO
92. The 2013 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is all about elegance. However today, this is still extremely youthful, offering characteristics which are somewhat Burgundian, with bright aromas of fresh black and red raspberries woven together with dried florals and spices along with wet stones and hints of orange zest. This wine is beautifully made, demonstrating wonderful overall balance and finesse with a gorgeous fine, silky texture through the finish. The 2013 will demand some additional bottle age, but I expect it to continue to develop and change dramatically over the next decade
VINEOUS – AVRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS
92 – 79$ : Limpid ruby. A highly expressive bouquet evokes ripe red berries, potpourri and peppery spices, and a smoky mineral nuance gains strength as the wine opens up. Offers concentrated raspberry liqueur and spicecake flavors and deeper licorice and bitter chocolate flavors sharpened and given spine by juicy acidity. Effortlessly plays richness off elegance and finishes sweet, spicy and impressively long, with velvety tannins lending shape and grip.
WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK
(91-93). It offers classic rolled-stone-like minerality, spice, licorice and dark fruits to go with medium-bodied richness and depth, integrated acidity and fine tannin. This will be a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape that will evolve nicely for 10-15 years.
RVF – H.S. NOV 2014 – R.PETRONIO
18/20. C\’est la cuvée tradition du domaine mais uniquement produite sur le terroir de La Crau. Il présente un nez intense et sauvage. Il y a un sentiment de puissance (25% de mourvèdre) et d\’énergie dans ce vin. Derrière cette force, transparaît une sève au cractère solaire typique de La Crau. Il est tempéré par le mode de vinification en grappes entières et son élevage en foudres. Cela confère une harmonie cohérente à cet assemblage de grenache, syrah et mourvèdre. Une belle réussite. Ouvrir dans 20 ans.
WINE SPECTATOR – 15 NOV 2014 – J.MOLESWORTH
94. Rock-solid, with a hefty core of fig, blackberry and black cherry fruit, wrapped in chestnut and tobacco leaf notes and carrying through a lavender- and tar-framed finish. Dense and grippy, showing a slightly old-school shading. Should cellar well. Best from 2016 through 2030
WS 30 nov 2014 : cité dans le Top 2012 (29 vins) des Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouges
WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK
93. The flagship 2012 is a classically structured, elegant effort that will evolve gracefully on its balance and harmony. Showing the telltale seaweed, currants, olive, licorice and ample minerality so common in this cuvee, it’s medium it’s full-bodied, lightly textured and focused on the palate, with plenty of tannin. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will have 15-20 years of longevity
GUIDE RVF 2015 – 18
Le domaine produit sur le terroir La Crau une couvée importante et unique d\\\’une grande régularité. Le 2012 possède cette empreinte solaire de la Crau dans sa chair et ses parfums, mais son raffinement l\’emporte.
RVF – OCT 2014 – dossier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012*
Vieux Télégraphe 2012 sort dans le top 10 sur 220 Châteauneuf-du-Pape dégustés avec la note de 18/20 et le commentaire suivant :
il s\’agit de la cuvée tradition du domaine mais elle est produite uniquement à partir de raisins nés sur le terroir de La Crau. C\’est pourquoi nous avons choisi de la présenter ici. Nez de fruit très mûr et de végétal noble, intense et sauvage. Ce vin développe une sensation de puissance (15% de mourvèdre) et d\’énergie. Derrière cette force transparaît une sève teintée du caractère tempéré par le mode de vinification en grappes entières et un élevage en foudres. L\’élevage confère une harmonie cohérente à cet assemblage de grenache / syrah / mourvèdre.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS
Bright ruby. Intense raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by hints of lavender, spicecake and blood orange. Juicy and fruit-driven, with palatecoating flavors of sweet, spice-tinged red fruits and candied flowers. Quite suave and seamless, boasting striking purity to its red fruit- and mineral-driven finish. Those who decry the ripeness and heady character of most Chateauneufs owe it to themselves to try this wine. 92-94
WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK
The top wine of the estate, the 2012 Vieux Telegraphe (which is always a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes, from 65-year-old vines) is a classic example of the cuvee and possesses gorgeous aromatics (kirsch, garrigue, big minerality and background meatiness), medium to full-bodied richness and a firm, tannic spine. As is common, it will require a handful of years in the cellar to come around and have 15 years of longevity. Drink 2016-2027. (93-95 pts)
WINEALIGN.COM – 24 OCT 2014 – JOHN SZABO
93. From the difficult 2011 vintage, Vieux Télégraphe is fine success i’d say, with massive structure and ultra-ripe and concentrated black berry fruit. This is still yers away from prime enjoyment, but within 4-6 years this should make for a compelling bottle, one of the better wines from the vintage. One would have to chalk up its character to Vieux Télégraphe’s old vines and exceptional terroir, able to handle heat stress, drought and generally erratic weather better that most.
WINEALIGN.COM – 24 OCT 2014 – JOHN SZABO
93. This is a very even, balanced and complex Châteauneuf. Not profound or texturally massive (as is the case with 2011s), but it is harmonious and focused and very complex. It was a lighter path to maturity. Lifted precise aromas of strawberry-cherry jam, fresh sage, woodsy and peppery aromas mingle ever so nicely. It’s medium-full, with a sense of freshness and poise. The length is excellent to outstanding. Evolving faily quickly, so enjoy over the next five years.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS
Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. The spicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In a graceful, almost weightless style, with zero excess fat but noteworthy flavor intensity. I underestimated this wine last year. 93
WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK
Forward and up-front, especially by this cuvee-s standards, the 2011 Vieux Telegraphe (65% Grenache from 70-year-old vines, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the balance other permitted varieties) exhibits perfumed aromas of herbs de Provence, seaweed wrapper, garrigue and olive to go with plenty of sweet kirsch and berry fruit. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant, with fine tannin, it can be consumed now (with a decant) or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025. 92 pts
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS
Deep ruby. Expressive, powerful aromas of blackberry and cherry are brightened by suave floral and spice notes. Lush and creamy, with sappy dark berry flavors, silky tannins and a gentle lift of acidity. Picks up seductive Asian spice notes with air, finishing sweet and very long. 90-92
RVF– JUIN 2012 –SPECIAL MILLESIME 2012
Cité dans ‘les grandes réussites’ de Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Parfums de fruit très mûr et de réglisse ; bouche puissante et veloutée, à la finale bien construite;
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS
($78) Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence. 94
WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – SEPT 26, 2012
96 pts – Coated with unctuous linzer torte, warm plum sauce and pure cassis fruit flavors, while notes of maduro tobacco, mint, green fig and toasted anise flitter throughout. This is lush and dense, but well-harnessed through the finish, with a mouthwatering roasted apple wood note and lingering fresh acidity. Best from 2014 through 2030
NEW YORK TIMES ONLINE – JULY 20, 2012 –
Not entirely traditional, but certainly not modern, either. Tannic, but mouthwatering and fresh. Cinnamon and other spices. Balanced and complex. (Eric Pfanner)
—
A few years ago I wrote about the grandest bottle of red wine it has been my pleasure to experience. At table with Aubert and Pamela de Villaine in Bouzeron, Aubert pulled out from his cellar a 1961 Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Tasting it was a voyage not unlike listening to Pablo Casals playing the Sarabande from Bach’s Cello Suite #2, a voyage serpentine, full of unexpected turns, nooks and crannies, soul-searching, and revelations. The wine, like the music, was deep, profound, ever-changing, truly moving. It was a singular experience, and I was reminded of it when I tasted the 2010 Vieux Télégraphe for the first time last summer with the gifted Brunier brothers.Once again, I had that sensation of a voyage through an aesthetic landscape with surprising twists and turns that covers a great distance before the aftertaste subsides. This classic opens with a voluptuous aroma that gives and gives—it is striking because of its charm and floral notes. How many Châteauneufs can boast of those two traits? By the time your voyage ends, however, you are in a completely different place—deep in the heart of Vieux Télégraphe territory—which is to say big gorgeous tannins and a glorious stoniness. This vintage can compare with any of the domaine’s past vintages including 1978 and 1983. All good things must end, they say, but this stunning wine will be good for decades.
WINE ADVOCATE – (91-94) pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197
Slightly denser than the 2009 with a deep ruby/plum/purple color followed by notes of crushed Provençal herbs, framboise, kirsh, licorice, pepper and nori. Full-bodied with good acidity and a distinct, earthy / underbrush character, it should drink nicely for at least two decades given the longevity of most top vintages of this wine.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS
93-95. Bright ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and lavender, with notes of white pepper and anise adding complexity. Very fresh and focused on entry, then deeper and more brawny in the middle, offering sappy cherry and red fruit preserve flavors. This spicy finish displays superb persistence, very good clarity and intense florality.
WINEALIGN.COM (ONTARIO) – JOHN SZABO
95+. The 2007 Vieux Télégraphe is a wine of incredible concentration and length; this will be a wine for the ages. It\’s dense, brooding, a little closed on the nose for the moment, but hints at scorched earth, savoury and sweet baking spice and ultra ripe kirsch, plum brandy, dried herbs and mineral aromas. The palate is full, very full, mouth-filling, dense and richly concentrated, with abundant tannins that are fully coated by massive fruit extract. Value rating : ***
LE DEVOIR – 8 FEV 2013 – JEAN AUBRY
Ce domaine poursuit dans le style où la puissance côtoie l’élégance, mais aussi avec ce sentiment d’urgence « terrienne » où fruit et terroir sont liés depuis un bon moment déjà. La Patine est capiteuse, la texture finement « serrante » en milieu de bouche, le tanin palpable, riche, presque gras. Sérieux. 4 étoiles/5.
GOURMET TRAVELLER (AUSTRALIE) – JUIN 2012 – ANDREW JEFFORD
2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, A$145 There’s something almost Burgundian about Vieux Télégraphe, with its clear, light colours; its refined scents of bay leaf and tobacco; and its unforbidding, glycerous flavours, full of faintly saline stoniness, licorice refinement, and with a gentle chocolaty sheen to the quiet, calm fruits. It’s almost as if you can taste the vast, bright sky, poised up above the boulder-strewn plateau of Crau, in the wine’s extensive openness of flavour: a serene summary of place.
GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK
(A$145) is a grand wine that still fits in the relatively reserved and savoury mode that defines this when young. The fruit is precisely ripe, nicely balanced with an abundance of sweet eastern spices and gentle earthy tones, red and darker reddish fruits evident too. The palate is dense yet supple, showing good weight, fleshy through the middle palate and impeccable poise. Superb length and balance, this boasts essence-like concentration. Again, one to leave alone for some time.
WINE SPECTATOR 31 OCT 2011 – JM – 94 points
This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted appel wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully.
THE RHONE REPORT – JEB DUNNUCK – ISSUE # 9 – 25 SEPT 2011 – 94 pts
The 2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a beauty. A blend of 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the rest an assortment of varieties, all from La Crau, it exhibits a traditional, muscular bouquet of both red and black fruits, white pepper, rolled stone, iron, and spice cabinet-like characteristics. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, structured wine that has a firm, focused feel, solid concentration, and an edgy, long finish. Overall, this is an old school, classically styled wine that’s meant for aging; it will need time to be approachable. I would give bottles 5-7 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking them over the following 10-15 years.
WINE ADVOCATE – 92 pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197
This classic offering had been bottled before my visit, so it was probably tighter than it will be in 6-12 months. Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seeweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, fullbodied mouthfeel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS
93. Bright ruby. Intense red fruit and potpourri aromas show excellent precision and a suave, spicy character. Licorice and lavender nuances add complexity to juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with the wine putting on weight in the glass. Finishes taut and youthfully tangy, with echoing licorice and spice notes
WINE ADVOCATE – (91-94) pts – 31 OCT 2010 – #191
A deep ruby/plum color is followed by a big, sweet nose of boysenberries, raspberries, licorice, nori seaweed wrap, black currants and earth. Fullbodied, with beautiful texture, purity, depth and power, the 2009 is a notch behind the extraordinary 2007, but it is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. It should drink well for 20 years.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 91-93 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011
Vivid ruby. Explosive raspberry and blackberry aromas,sustained by hints of star anise and rose; showing excellent clarity and energy. Silky in texture and alluringly sweet, with palate-coating red and dark berry flavors and no rough edges. Finishes with impressive persistence and lingering sweetness, repeating the dark berry note. I really like this wine’sseamless texture.
VINUM – SEPT 2010 – 15.5/20
Hübsche Würze, klassich, angenehm fruchtig auch; guter Gastronomiewein.
WINE ADVOCATE – 89 pts – 31 OCT 2010 – #191
The Brunier have turned out a very fine 2008 (what they call a ‘vintage of freshness’). This classic effort possesses more stuffing than most of its peers. It reveals this estate’s tell-tale notesof earthy garrigue, herbs, licorice and seaweed, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, soft tannins and more depth than many 2008s. Nevertheless, it will not be a long-ager, so readers are encouraged to drink it over the next 5-7 years.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 90 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011
Bright ruby. Lively, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, anise,earth and spices, augmented by hints of lavender and resin. Energetic, focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show good definition and pick up minerality with air. Taut on the back end, finishing with solid grip and very good, tangy persistence. I like this wine’s vivacity and balance.
WINE SPECTATOR – 92 pts – 31 JAN 2011
Still tight, with the core of cherry and red currant fruit held in check by a mix of lightly firm sandalwood, spice, licorice root and warm stone flavors. Mulled fig and cocoa notes check in on the grippy finish. A rare backward style 2008 that will need some cellaring to round into form. Best from 2013 through 2020
WINE ADVOCATE #191 – 89 – $65
The Brunier brothers have turned out a very fine 2008 châteauneuf-du-Pape (what they call a vintage of freshness). This classic effort possesses more stuffing than most of its peers. It reveals this estate’s tell-tale notes of earthy garrigue, herbs, licorice and seaweed, a medium to full-bodies mouthfeel, soft tannins and more depth than many 2008s.
DECANTER – APRIL 2010
16.5 – **** – Sweet, mild Grenache fruit and a floral aire. Typical plum flavours and fine texture. A few moments of late tannin. length is adequate, but it is less open than many 2008s.
GAULT MILLAU – FEV-MARS 2010
16.5 – Une sincérité et une probité humaines qui s’expriment également à travers les vins. Les recettes sont simples : une vision à long terme solide, basée sur des choix que l’expérience a validés ; mais également une adaptation à chaque millésime. Le dernier petit secret : pas de faux-semblant. Un vin austère, plus profond que puissant avec , en filigrane, des notes de curry, de prune, d’anis, d’épices douces. Un vin mentholé, droit et « classique » dans le plus beau sens du terme. S’allongeant sur la salinité.
JANCIS ROBINSON NOTES – NOV 2009
17- Drink 2011-14
Mealy and substantial and interesting. Real depth to this with structure and intensity. Long (a rarity in 2008). Obviously this has been made with a great deal of ambition. This has a beginning, middle and end.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010
Ruby-red. The nose offers deeper and smokier aromas than that of the Telegramme, with cherry and herb qualities and a note of anise. Smooth, sappy raspberry and cherry flavors pick up a sexy floral quality with air. Attractively sweet and open-knit, this should be drinkable soon after release. 88-90
WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER
rating (89-91) – not yet released – Production for the grand vin in 2008 was down by 20-25%, and the 2008 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape appears to be a soft, richly fruity wine revealing lots of raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of nori (the seaweed wrapper found in sushi restaurants), roasted Provencal herbs, and garrigue, This lovely front end-Ioaded effort will be unusually precocious, so Tt should be drinkable upon release, and will evolve for 7-10 years.
SOMMELIER INTERNATIONAL – AOÛT 2010
Nez : plaisant, une belle complexité sur des arômes de petits fruits noirs et rouges très mûrs et de fleurs (pivoine, violette), s’ouvrant à l’aération vers des touches de cerise confite et de réglisse.
Bouche : très aromatique, structurée et puissante. Bien équilibrée. Finale chaleureuse sur des tanins soyeux.
Accord mets et vins : un lapin aux épices. Commentaires : un vin profond et harmonieux
www.bordeauxwineenthusiasts.com
This was tied for wine of the Thanksgiving weekend that included, among other great wines, the following: 1995 Cos d\’Estournel, 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste, 1998 La Mission Haut Brion, 2000 Beaucastel, 2001 Phelps Insignia, 2007 Les Cailloux, and some twenty other spectacular wines. The co-winner was a dazzling 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte, which is really rounding into form. The Vieux Telegraphe was stunning on the nose, stunning on the palate. It was popped and poured and was the immediate, hands-down, no-question-about-it favorite among the dozen or so who drank it. The 1998 Figeac was also a chocolate right bank beauty.
LES MEILLEURS VIN DE FRANCE 2011
8ème rang – […] Le bouquet dégage immédiatement d’étonnantes et très attachantes exhalaisons de brise marine, légèrement iodées et salées. Sur cette trame, repose un velours de confiture de cerises, de pruneau et de poivre noir. Puis l’algue afflue, accompagnée de jolis baigneurs : cassis, bois de réglisse et tabac blond. L’attaque confirme la richesse que le nez avait déjà révélée. Les tannins sont mûrs, corsés, extrêmement denses. Ils libèrent de la pâte de coing et de cassis, ainsi que de la groseille à maquereau. En rétro-olfaction s’imposent des herbes de Provence et du paprika. La finale est époustouflante, elle touche presque la queue de pan en atteignant 50 caudalies, pendant lesquelles se joue une parfait harmonie d’acide, d’alcool, de figue, de cerise, de poivre blanc, de piment doux et de safran. Dans cette bouteille, la richesse de Crésus, l’esprit de la commune, du Front populaire et des premiers congés payés, s’embrassent jusqu’à l’extase.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010
($70) Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property’s usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine’s virility. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA) 93
GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010
15/20. Le vin est souple et charnu, sur les fruits à noyau, de longueur correcte mais sans pour autant posséder le volume et la profondeur des plus grandes réussites de la propriété.
WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER
rating 96 – The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25 years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier.
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (19)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-35
Red cherry, wax and nut nose – a future beauty. Has more structure than most 2007s,fresh and balanced. Red fruit palate and huge tannins.
WINE ADVOCATE –N°179
30 OCT 2008 – ROBERT PARKER
(94-96 ) – should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45 seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would walt until 2012 before pullung a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years.
WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – JAMES MOLESWORTH
95 POINTS – $66 – 4100 cs imported Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone-filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2030.—J.M.
IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – Josh Reynolds
90-93 – Saturated ruby. Youthfully brooding nose displays dark berries, tobacco and licorice, plus an undercurrent of smoky minerals. More powerful than what I expect from this estate, boasting deep, chewy cassis and bitter cherry flavors and a late note of bitter chocolate. Impressive for its richness and size, but will it gain the finesse that I associate with this domain?
DECANTER – MAY 2009 – RHONE VALLEY TOP 2007 – J. Livingstone
***** (19) – Full bouquet, promises to be a beauty. The palate is fresh and balanced, with a mark of tanin following on from a willing bout of red fruits. Drink 2009-2034
TOP 100 2009 – WINE SPECTATOR – 30 DEC 2009
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2007 GOT THE 3RD RANK
When Châteauneuf-du-Pape became France’s frist AOC in 1936, Vieux Télégraphe had already been in operation for nearly 40 years. Today, brothers Daniel and Frédéric Brunier farm the domaine’s 173 acres located in the appellation’s famed La Crau sector. The wine is a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% of each Syrah and Mourvèdre and a dash of Cinsault, Clairette and others, all sourced from vines averaging 60 years of age. 17000cs made.
RVF – NOV 2009
Toujours imposant, le Vieux Télégraphe 2006 est très épicé et fruité. Il évolue sur une note de cacao, de ronce, de fruit noir, de réglisse et de ciste. La bouche est marqué par un fruit doux et frais, très croquant. La fraîcheur du millésime épouse à merveille la chaleur de ce terroir de la Crau. Superbe ! 18/20
GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010
15/20. Belle robe profonde, nez de confiture de mûre, attaque généreuse, tanins solides. Vin charnu, assez ferme en finale pour le moment.
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (17.5)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £37.60-37
(Tasted in Nov. 2007)
Palate more expressive than nose: grilled pistachio and smoky red frult. Palate of red berry and plum. Evident tannins. 2012-2022
AUTOUR DE BACCUS – PATRICK LEBAX
Cela commence presque comme une épreuve de philo : « l’homme est-il une composante du terroir ? » S’en suit un long – et instructif – manifeste sur cette notion si française que bien des spécialistes ont tenté d’expliquer. Les plus curieux ont leur idée sur la question : ils définissent le terroir comme une trilogie : le sol, la climatologie et l’homme. Les autres s’en moquent, pourvu que le terroir soit bon, c’est tout ce qu’on lui demande le soir après une journée de dur labeur. Bref, qu’on y arrive ou qu’on n’y arrive pas, qu’importe. Le terroir c’est ce truc indéfinissable qui fait que le vin est bon. Bien à l’endroit où il prend vie, avec juste ce qu’il faut de soleil et de pluie, de taille et de soins, bien élevé, grâce à la main du vigneron… Ici, le vin répond à l’ensemble de ce petit cahier des charges. Le sol : le plateau caillouteux de la Crau, lieu-dit bien connu de l’appellation Châteauneuf du pape, laisse les vieilles vignes (60 ans en moyenne) s’épanouir dans un sol où les « molasses du Miocène » font de la place à l’argile. La météo ? Une pluviométrie hivernale moyenne (200 mm) suffit à recharger ce type de profil qui ne subit que peu de déperdition. Le soleil fait le reste. Quant à l’homme, les hommes, Daniel et Frédéric Brunier, ils mettent en musique, comme on dit, à l’aide de plusieurs cépages (grenache noir 65%, mourvèdre 15%, syrah 15%, cinsault, Clairette et autres 5%). Châteauneuf est en effet une appellation autorisée à utiliser 13 cépages, un record national. Bref, vous l’avez compris, ce vieux télégraphe est un vin de terroir. Puissant et aromatique, il peut patienter un quart de siècle au moins avant de laisser ses tanins s’arrondir. Certains l’aiment plus jeune… c’est toujours une question de goût.
IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – Josh Reynolds
92 – ($73) Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and very long. The juice that goes into this cuvee comes from vines that are at least 50 years of age, with the blend featuring 65% grenache, 15% each of syrah and mourvedre, and 5% cinsault and « divers”.
TOP 100 2009 – WINE SPECTATOR – 30 DEC 2008
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2005 GOT THE 5TH RANK (95 pts)
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (20/20)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-35
Solid, broad, warm nose. Clear. warm texture and sweetness, pleasingly fresh aftertaste. Great balance and a lovely palate. 2009-2036
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En 2005, la nature fut d’une grande générosité pour les vignerons du sud de la Vallée du Rhône ; à châteauneuf-du-Pape, nous avons eu notre part du cadeau ; les Vieux Télégraphe rouge sont de toute beauté : couleur rubis intense, profond et brillant. Le nez est complexe, minéral, on sent presque le « cailloux », ce célèbre galet roulé qui recouvre entièrement le plateau de la Crau. La bouche est à la fois onctueuse, équilibrée et sévère ; c’est sérieux, complet, riche mais pas entêtant. La structure tannique est bien intégrée malgré la jeunesse du vin, elle lui confère son potentiel de vieillissement dont il est difficile aujourd’hui de fixer la limite.
WINE SPECTATOR BLOG – 94 pts- Nov 15, 2011
Textbook, with singed cedar and tobacco leaf, lavender and bay notes weaving through flavors of date nut bread, dried currant and mulled cherry fruit. All of this is harnessed by pebbly tannins that leave a juicy mouthwatering feel on the finish. A domaine that hasn’t missed a beat in quite some time. 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now through 2021. 15,000 cases made. Release price: $48 | Current price: $61
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (18)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-40
Subdued, herb nose. Grenache fruit at the helm, given extra weight and width by the other varieties. Good, fresh balance, profound wine. 2009-2035.
www.paperblog.fr – par Altervino
Le temps a métamorphosé ce vin. Un monde le sépare du millésime 2007. Ici le nez fait frissonner avec ses notes de tabac, de cuir et animales. La bouche est tout en velours et délicatesse. L’alcool et l’élevage se sont parfaitement intégrés. Un grand vin sudiste dans toute sa splendeur. Comme quoi il faut savoir attendre les vins « plus plus ». Très bien. Conclusion : il n\’y a pas de grands vins qui ne s’inscrivent pas dans le temps.
WINE ADVOCATE #189 – JUNE 30, 2010
95. Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Télégraphe that was produced. it has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. it has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this fullbodied, powerfull wine. it possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in ters of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo !
RVF – NOV 2009
Ce millésime commence à s’assagir, on est sur le fruit confit avec une note de prune et de cuir. Ce millésime solaire a donné naissance à un fruit imposant. Le temps doit encore œuvrer pour livrer toutes les nuances de ce beau terroir. 17.5 / 20
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Good full medium red. Complex nose melds raspberry, redcurrant, humus, smoke, leather, tobacco, minerals, spices and fresh herbs. Sweet and supple but with bright acids and an exotic suggestion of white fruits keeping the mid-palate fresh. Finishes with a firm dusting of tannins. This should continue to evolve for at least another decade. (I shold note that this third bottle was a charm, as my first two, though seemingly firm and youth full as well, showed a slightly musty, fungal quality that gave the finish a dry edge.)
WINE SPECTATOR online – 30 APR; 2009
The Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 1998 comes from a big, muscular vintage that is just now starting to hit its stride. This wine, typically rugged when young, has slowly but surely evolved into a mouthfilling wine loaded with black currant, bacon fat, tar and grilled herb notes. There’s still plenty of grip for additional aging, though the wine has softened enough to now be approachable. I gave it 94 points, non-blind, which is consistent with the review I gave it when I did a retrospective tasting of 1998 Châteauneufs back in 2007.
[…]
Et enfin la bombe, le 1998. C’est ce dernier, qui commence seulement à se dévoiler, nécessitant un passage en carafe d’au moins une heure pour se livrer totalement, que nous avons retenu. Un vin sauvage mais aussi très raffiné qui appelle le gibier. Depuis sa naissance, ce millésime du domaine du Vieux Télégraphe s’impose comme l’une des principales réussites de la propriété. Il confirme aujourd’hui son énorme potentiel et sa grande classe. Peu évolué en couleur, il affiche un nez captivant et profond de fruits frais, d’herbes de Provence, de réglisse et une fine touche légèrement iodée. La bouche est d’une opulence magnifique, juteuse et équilibrée, avec des tanins qui commencent à s’arrondir. Puissant et long, il se révèle plus complexe encore après une longue aération.
RFV – MAI 2008 – LAURIE MATHESON
Sur le papier, il s’agit en effet d’un millésime moyen. La période de floraison avait été très chahutée par le climat. Basses températures et mistral ont fait couler les grenaches. La vigne, ainsi dépouillée d’une grande partie de ses fruits, avait compensé par la formation de « raisins seconds », dont le cycle de maturité est bien différent des raisins principaux. Dans cette situation délicate, nous avons attendu la maturité complète de ces raisins afin de récolter une quantité à peu près normale (27hl/ha). La dégustation confirme. La robe de ce vin est d’un rouge brique encore jeune. Après aération, le nez se met en place avec ses fines notes de tabac. En bouche, on ressent très bien la fraîcheur du millésime. Le Volume est moyen, la richesse n’est pas le signe de l’année mains l’équilibre est là. Le vin arrive à son terme, mais il est encore bien vivant. Les arômes sont très classiques – le réglisse du grenache est très doux -, dans cette phase d’arômes tertiaires où il n’y a plus d’excès. Ce n’est pas très complexe mais charmant. Une belle minéralité fait surface en finale et donne du relief à l’ensemble.
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (19)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE
Sweet, red berry air. Meaty, red fruit palate, spiced, pebbly finish, very good balance, beautiful richness, seductive, changing, fantastic nose. 2OO9 -7021
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