Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by our family, the Brunier family, for six generations - since 1891 to be precise. The estate’s vineyards, 60 years old on average, are planted on the celebrated Plateau of La Crau, a site renowned for grape-growing in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This terroir imparts to our wines a highly distinctive minerality, as if they have been filtered through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.
[...] Since the 2014 vintage, we have had a real struggle to obtain the AOP Gigondas label for this cuvée, with temporary rejections, exam retakes, phoney approvals and disparaging remarks – all because of its colour. It was too light, assuredly too “natural”, and not “pink” enough either. So this year, we have decided to stop putting in the effort, and to simply no longer seek Gigondas appellation status. Instead, we will make a Vin de France, be it pink, grey or golden – an Au Petit Bonheur les Pallières the way we like it, however our soil yields it, with its qualities and flaws, but, above all, its rounded personality. We will have no truck with standardisation. [...]
Je suis tombé dessus un jour par hasard avec l'impression de changer de dimension. À l'aveugle, je ne l'aurais jamais placé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Ce vin est issu d'un assemblage de deux parcelles, les grenaches de Piedlong et les mourvèdres de Pignan, pour 10 %. Du coup, la famille Brunier m'est apparue comme une bande de grands couturiers. Qu'elle est. J'en ai acheté plein.